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Personal Finance

Smart Savings, Dumb Savings

I’m reading and enjoying a book I got from a good friend for Christmas (“How to manage Residential Property for Maximum Cash Flow and Resale Value” by John T. Reed). Reed has a very pragmatic approach to life and investing, which I appreciate. One of his “rules of thumb” which seems like a good one, is only purchase something to save money if you’ll earn back the purchase price within three years.

He talks about this in the context of electricity metering and whatnot, but I think its probably pretty good universal advice. If you’re running a business and you’re thinking about investing in higher capacity machinery, if you’ll earn back the cost of the machinery in the next 3 years through the increased profit, get it, if you can’t don’t.

We encountered this situation at the building I’m a silent partner at. The active partner wants to install solar paneling. I’ve read about buildings that have installed solar panels and feed energy back into the grid (and get paid for it). It all sounds great, until I got to the part where it takes solar panels 20 years to save/earn enough to cover the costs of the equipment. Factor in the “time value of money” and you’ll never earn back what you put into it. Even though it would save us money every month, we’d never get back what we put into it, so it’s a dumb way to “save” money. I’ve told this to my buddy repeatedly, but he keeps bringing up the idea of installing solar panels every couple of months (I think he likes the idea of having a cutting edge building). We’ll probably eventually put them in (sigh). Down the road, solar panels will get more efficient (cheaper to make and/or more effective) and about the time they’ll pay for themselves in 3 years they’ll be worth installing in most buildings.

On a more personal level, if you’re doing something to save money around the house, make sure you’ll make it back in 3 years through savings. If you’re considering installing insulation, make sure the decrease in electricity spending will save you the cost of materials and installation over the first 3 years. If you’re considering putting a low-flow head on the shower, or installing a low-flow toilet, make sure the savings will be re-couped within 3 years, etc, etc.

What “cost saving” purchases have you made and how long did it take them to pay for themselves?

Categories
Personal Finance

Entertainment Return on Investment

Merry Christmas to everyone who celebrates that sort of thing! Mike did an excellent Christmas post, so today’s post will only be slightly related to the season.

A funny perspective on entertainment that I’ve discussed with a few friends is the idea of “entertainment time per dollar spent”. The idea behind this being, you’re going to do/buy things for fun in your life (hopefully), and which do you get the biggest bang for your buck from? If you’ll forgive a little math, consider:

Entertainment ROI = Enjoyment * time / cost

Enjoyment is hard to quantify, so I’ll ignore it for this post, but I think it would be fair to factor in the idea that you enjoy something twice as much as something else.

Perhaps a clarifying example is in order. Say I go see a 2 hour movie and I pay $12. My “EROI” is 0.17 (2 hours/$12). You watch an hour of TV each day, and cable costs you $50 / month, your EROI is 0.6 (30 hours / $50). So if someone was trying to save money, and enjoyed both watching TV and seeing movies, they’d probably be better off keeping the cable and stop going to movies for a while (even though cable costs far more then a movie ticket).

I talked about this idea with a friend who is addicted to “World of Warcraft”. He defends it saying it’s his primary entertainment in life, and it offers an incredibly good deal ($13 / month). A “moderate” player probably plays 10 hours / week at least, so this really is a killer deal (3.1 + the cost of the computer and internet access). For someone playing it 40 hours / week, they’re getting an unbelievable deal (but it’ll probably lead to other problems in their life if they’re playing that much).

The extremes are things that you pay for and never use or free things you use often. Say you buy your kid a toy and he never plays with it, the EROI is zero. Alternatively library books can give you hours of enjoyment for free, for a EROI of infinity.

This is one of those ideas that might be worth considering, but it’s probably best not to go overboard with it. The EROI of an evening out with friends is quite low, but it’s a lot more fun than reading a library book at home, so you should still do it. If you find there’s some entertainment you’re doing on a regular basis that has a low EROI compared to other things you enjoy doing equally well (say a gym membership you don’t use, expensive theater tickets you don’t enjoy, a motorcycle, etc), it may be worth cutting out the low EROI activities.

For those who get gifts today, I hope they all have a high EROI!

Categories
Real Estate

Incorporating

Dan from Toronto wrote to ask:

I noticed you’ve purchased an investment property that you rent out. I’ve recently purchased a new home, re-financing my existing condominium to help pay the downpayment on the new home, and also renting out the condo. The rental income from the condominium covers quite evenly the operating cost of the condo (essentially – it carries itself, which was my goal from outset).Now in speaking to an accountant, he’s telling me I should NOT have the condo in my name, that I should either incorporate, and transfer the unit to the corp (thereby resulting in Land Transfer tax), or transfer it to my spouse. Others are telling me the accountant is nuts, and that I’m fine leaving it my name and simply claiming the rental income as just that, rental income, on my tax return, and write off the interest expense as well.

Wanted to quickly ping you to determine whether you have incorporated or have all your investment property in your name? ie: rent cheques go to your name? or 123456 Ontario Ltd. etc. The accountant says that since I re-financed my principal residence and put that money into my new residence, that this is a bad thing. Others say hogwash to that! 🙂 Not sure who to believe at this point, but wanted to hear your take.

I have a condo I rent out (which is in my name, NOT in a corporation) and I’m a silent partner in owning a building (which IS a corporation, which I own 50% of).

Whether it would be worth putting the condo in a corporation or not would depend on your networth, your marginal tax rate, your risk threshold and how much income the condo is making. To get the taxes done for a corporation costs about $1K / year, so that’s going to come out of your pocket if it’s breaking even right now. Corporations are taxed more favorably, so the income would be taxed at the corp rate (25%) if you incorporated, or at your marginal tax rate if you didn’t.

Assuming you have a marginal tax rate of 40%, it would make sense to incorporate if the condo made more then $6,667 PROFIT / year (since you’d have a tax savings of 15% from incorporating, but would have a fixed cost of $1000 for having the taxes done). Since your current profit is $0, I’d be tempted to leave it in your own name. The other advantage of incorporating is to shield yourself from liability. Say your tenant tripped, broke his back and sued you for 1.5 million. If you actually have 1.5 million, you could lose everything (and it might be worth $1K / year to avoid this). Incorporating would make the rental unit a separate legal entity, and in a worst case scenario your loses SHOULD be restricted to the condo itself. I say should because its possible to “pierce the corporate veil” and make the owner liable (I have no idea how this works, just that its possible). Its also possible to get insurance as a private owner to protect against things like this.

The fact that your accountant is suggesting you transfer it to a corporation OR your spouse sounds like he’s thinking that it’s better to declare the income under someone who is earning at a lower marginal rate then you are, but it’s weird since the condo is breaking even (there isn’t much to declare).

I’d tend to side with your friends and say your accountant seems to be giving strange advice. I’d try to get a clarification from him, and if he can’t explain his thinking to you, perhaps consider finding a new accountant (I’ve used 2 accountants and was dissatisfied with both of them). Telly makes a pretty good argument that you’re best figuring out your own taxes, and just going to accountants to get specific questions answered.

Remember that the PRINCIPAL portion of the mortgage ISN’T deductible (you’ll pay tax on this at your marginal rate, as if its income), so if a reasonably large portion of the mortgage payments are going to the principle (i.e. if this is approaching $7k / year) then it would make sense to get it in someone else’s name (as your accountant suggests). It would also mean that you’re doing far better than “breaking even” (which would be a good thing 😉 ). When you pay down the principal, you put equity into the property, which is almost as good as money in the bank (and is taxed accordingly).

The re-financing to buy your new home MAY have caused problems with the rental (when you re-financed it to take money out, the interest on the money you withdrew is no longer tax deductible since you’re using it for personal reasons – buying a house for you to live in – and not for investment purposes). Who’s name the condo is in wouldn’t affect this though (unless the view was that you could make it deductible again by selling it to your spouse or your corporation).

Your accountant MIGHT be suggesting this because he wants to earn the $$$ for setting up the corporation and for doing its taxes each year (which would motivate me to find a new accountant, you don’t need people to make bad recommendations for you to generate fees for themselves).

Dan responded and said:

My lawyer gave me very similar advice to yours, his words to me were “I don’t see the benefit of incorporation for you, since you would reduce your income on the condo to zero in any event by prepaying your mortgage, thereby eliminating tax liability whether the condo is owned by you or a corporation.”

I think based on the advice I’ve received from yourself and numerous others, I’m better off doing my own taxes next year.

We covered a lot of ground on this topic, and I’m certainly not up on all the relevant laws (tax and corporate). If anyone has more information (or knows that something I wrote is incorrect), please post a comment!

Categories
Personal Finance

How Canadians Can Establish Credit In America

I actually lived in the US for a couple of years, but foolishly didn’t establish myself financially beyond opening a bank account. I used my Canadian credit cards, never owned property and just lived my life there.

Over a year ago when Prosper.com started up and I wanted to try it out, I wasn’t able to open an account since I didn’t have a US address or any US credit history. I tried a number of ways to get established with US credit and they were all quite difficult. The “official” way to do it is you go to a bank, offer to set up a GIC (they call them CDs south of the border) and an account with them. You then get a credit card with a limit significantly less than the CD’s value (so if you don’t pay your bill they have the CD). I tried to set this up, but the bureaucracy wore me out before I could have it set up.

Department stores, credit card issuers or anyone will just turn up their nose at you when you apply and don’t have any credit (this happened to me everywhere).

There is an easy “back door” which I used (and would suggest to others, this may also work in Canada or other western countries). Basically you use a friend who lives in the country that you want to establish credit in. Together you get a joint credit card, which they’ll be able to easily get if they have any sort of credit at all. The limit doesn’t matter. If your friend doesn’t trust you fully, that’s not a problem, just get the joint card and tell them to keep both cards when they’re issued.

Then you (or your friend) charge things on the card. The amount doesn’t matter, but its good to keep something on the card (buy a latte every month and just pay it off when the bill is due). Almost IMMEDIATELY you’ll be in the credit system and will get a FLOOD of credit card offers. Sign up for one of them, and when you get the card, get your friend to cancel the joint card. I’d recommend holding out for a credit card that has no annual fee, the interest rate doesn’t matter (since you’re going to pay it off every month, right?). Rapidly they’ll increase the limit if you just use it and pay it off consistently.

You now have started a credit history in that country, your friend isn’t liable for you any more, and you’ll keep getting more offers as you use and establish your credit in your own name. I always pay my credit cards in full (along with all other bills) and got a Visa, Mastercard and AMEX early in life and have never gotten more cards (except for a gold AMEX I only use for renting cars, because it covers the insurance). When it came time to get my first mortgage, the rep I was dealing with expressed amazement at how high my credit rating was. I expect if I ever apply for a mortgage in the US, my credit should also be fairly decent.

Categories
Opinion

Investment Recommendations For Friends

Everyone always loves to say “do your own research before purchase”, “make sure to do your own due diligence” or “this is just for informational purposes, not to recommendation to buy or sell” and garbage like that. People are clearly reading investing opinion pieces because they can’t reach their own conclusions, and are prepared to defer to someone they feel is more knowledgeable. The disclaimer is just a cop-out to avoid blame if things hit the fan.

With that in mind, I’ve been happy to write about pretty much anything on this blog, and am equally open with thoughts and ideas about investing to my real life friends and family.

After reading about Lending Club, my best friend and I went 50/50 on a $500 investment. We discussed all the available loans, would send back and forth loan options to fund, and after we’d loaned out the $500, all the loans were doing very well. We’d originally planned to re-invest the proceed, but instead we borrowed more from Lending Club to re-invest (leveraging my friend’s great credit rating since I didn’t have any American credit at the time). Another $2500 in and we were collecting loan proceeds to pay off our debt (and Mr. Cheap was feeling like a tycoon).

Then our first “post Christmas” crash hit, a bunch of our loans went into delinquency, and eventually bankruptcy. Our money has broke even (with the high interest loans JUST covering those who have been defaulting), and our hope is to break even or at least have a bit of our originally $500 left when we pay off the loan we took out.

More recently, in the middle of the sub-prime shakedown, Washington Mutual was yielding over 10%. I talked to my friend about how I love dividend stocks, how stable banks are, and how much they value investors’ long term confidence in their ability to pay dividends. Trusting my judgement, my friend bought in to WaMu at over $30. The stock prompt started nose diving. Partly because I wanted to share her pain, and partly because I honestly thought it was unwarranted pessimism, I bought it myself at $21, buying on margin (which wasn’t terribly smart since I’m not working right now and will have a very low income when I’m back at school). Neither of us invested more than we could lose, but it really sucked when they started saying they’re going to cut their dividend by 2/3rds (I can forgive a low stock price, but if you cut your dividend you’re dead to Mr. Cheap).

Recently when I was talking to my friend I expressed my amazement that she’d still listen to me babble about money since the only thing I seem to be able to do is lose it for her. “Experience is a great teacher but she’s a costly one” rings in my mind, and more and more I see the wisdom of not providing specific financial advice to people you care about. Talking about the thoughts and philosophies are fine, but making specific recommendations just sucks if they don’t work out (and there’s always a risk they won’t).

Of course, do your own due diligence and acquire your own experiences before following any of my advice ;-). A wussy, garbage cop-out, but perhaps a wise one.

Categories
Real Estate

Landlord Insurance

One of the things every “Starting With Real Estate Investing” book or information source says is to get insurance. Obviously having your investment burn down or getting hit with a multi-million dollar lawsuit would suck. I’ve written before that I’m not a huge fan of insurance (and I really believe if you start buying everything an insurance salesman offers you you’ll be in the poorhouse soon). HOWEVER, insuring against catastrophic loss is what you DO want insurance for. The insurance companies can make money in the aggregate, and you can avoid potentially devastating misfortune.

As I was completing repairs, I started calling agents wanting to buy insurance for the condo. With each one, the conversation went the same way. I’d tell them I’d bought a condo as an investment property, and wanted landlord insurance. They’d ask me who provided insurance for my primary residence. I’d tell them I rented, and didn’t need insurance for my residence, then they’d tell me they couldn’t sell me insurance.

It was very odd.

I’ve had a very few occasions in life when someone just flat out refuses to sell me something that they seem to be offering for sale and it throws you for a loop. I don’t even get angry, just very confused. I asked them who I should be calling to purchase insurance from, if they couldn’t sell it to me, and each of them said they didn’t know.

Finally I lucked out (after calling about 10 agents) and found someone who seemed to understand his business a bit better. He told me he couldn’t sell me insurance for my condo UNLESS I bought tenant insurance too. No problem I said (at this point I was desperate). I ended up getting full coverage for both residences (I’ll never use my rental insurance) for $40 / month, which seems very reasonable to me.

The morals of this story are:

1) Persistence pays off

2) If you want to get insurance for an investment property, get insurance for your primary residence as well (whether you want it or not) to make your life easier

3) Stick with people who know their business / do your business well. The insurance agent who sold me the right product is going to get first shot at all my future business.

Categories
Personal Finance

Salary Negotiations

I recently had a buddy lose his job, and go through the whole job hunt process. He found a new position, and we got on the phone when he wasn’t sure if he was going to take it or not (the salary was lower than his last position). I was shocked that he was debating saying yes or no (leaning towards no) and leaving it at that.

With employment, two needs are being met. The employer is helping the employee with his need for money, and the employee is helping the business with their need for labour. By acting like a beggar when you approach a company, you really aren’t doing yourself any favours (and aren’t understanding the reality of the situation).

When I said to my friend to start negotiating, he glumly told me that the guy had said that the salary offer was the maximum the board would approve and he was viewing it as “take it or leave it”. My response was “ok, leave the salary alone and ask for other things”, such as:

1) A signing bonus. Some companies will balk at the idea, but will sometimes be ok with the idea if you deliver it as something else, such as a relocation re-compensation or training re-compensation for some courses you recently took.

2) A budget for training. Pitch it as it’ll be helpful for your personal development AND for the company. Stress that you’ll take courses that’ll be useful to the work you’re doing at the company.

3) An equipment budget. Ask for a discretionary electronics budget for a pda, laptop, external hard drive, books, or other small items that you wouldn’t want to official apply for approval to purchase.

4) A company car or some sort of car allowance (no idea how this works, as I’ve never gotten anything like this, but some people must).

5) More vacation, the same money for less work is as good as more money in Mr. Cheap’s book.

6) A conference budget, i.e. a discretionary fund you can use to attend conferences for career development.

In the end my friend got them to provide a Blackberry (which he loves and was missing from his last job) and a training budget, which when added to his salary, bumps him up to more then he was making before.

Surprisingly, even companies that have “fixed salary levels” can often be flexible with things like this (if you can call it something other than salary, they can often find the money to make it happen).

If you’re about to say no to a job offer, or are ready to quit, why not ask for a few extra perks? The worst the can say is no…

Any suggestions for other non-monetary job perks you can ask for or suggestions to other salary negotition mind tricks?

Categories
Personal Finance

Toronto Cheap Eats

I (obviously) like to save money, but I also like to eat (which is how I “fought” my way up to 214 lbs at my heaviest). Toronto, like all cities, has the full range of eateries from bad to expensive to “cheap and tasty” (what I like and will detail here). All of these restaurants are good, cheap, and accessible by subway.

I’ll forewarn that I like ethnic foods, so if you’re a meat and potatoes eater, you probably won’t get much out of this post. If you don’t live in Toronto, please feel free to bookmark this post for your next visit to our (not-so) fair city.

Sushi:

New Generation Sushi on Bloor and Sushi on Bloor (also on Bloor 😉 ) both do a great lunch combo (and a reasonable dinner). If you talk to a Toronto based sushi eater, they’ll probably say one of these two places is their favourite (and hence they’re always fairly busy – be prepared to wait a while on the weekend at meal time). You’re looking at spending around $7 / person if you’ll drink the included green tea and not order anything extra. Katsu Sushi (572 Danforth Ave. E.) is great for when you’ve got a massive hunger and aren’t offended by the concept of all-you-can-eat sushi. Avoid Mariko for all-you-can eat (or generally). I managed to fish [pardon the pun] a piece of metal out of my sushi (which I delightfully found mid-bite), and after I pointed it out to the waiter and the chef, all they did was deny it (yeah, right, I’m trying to scam a free dinner) and gave us some free freezer-burnt green tea ice-cream. I haven’t been back.

East Indian:

Buffet is totally the way to go for Indian food (you get WAY more food and variety for your buck). My ex-girlfriend always insisted that ordering dishes individually was higher quality food, but I think this was just in her head. There are a ton of buffet restaurants, all competing with each other along Queen W. Get out from the subway on a Sunday around noon and just head west until you find one you like the looks of (competition is a beautiful thing). For some strange reason the buffets are just for lunch (at most places). In Little India (on Gerrard) you can get dinner buffets, but they’re more expensive. If you’re afraid of trying a restaurant without getting a recommendation first, go to Kama. They’re also great for their take-out lunches (they give you a container and you try to stuff as much food from the buffet into it as you can), which is super if you work in the area.

West Indian (Caribbean):

Not the cheapest in Toronto, but the curried goat for $11 from Albert’s is Mr. Cheap’s favourite food (for a while I was eating this almost daily!). The large serving is enough food for any except the most massive appetites. Everyone else seems to love the ox tail (which wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t as good as the goat).

Vegetarian:

Good, cheap vegetarian restaurants are tough to find, and about the best in the city is Jean’s Vegetarian Kitchen (1262 Danforth Avenue). Its Asian-style vegetarian food, and a great meal even for a near-carnivore like Mr. Cheap (the “fake duck” is disappointing but everything else is great). Avoid Fresh and Le Commensal, not because they’re bad, but just because there’s better food for the price.

Vietnamese:

Ginger (at 695 Yonge St. next to “The Brass Rail” [not work safe] where I’d recommend going for dessert 😉 or down the road a ways at 399 Younge) is a dirt cheap, cafeteria style Pho joint. I like the rare meat with beef balls Pho, a large bowl of it can be had for $5!

Cheap Date Restaurants:

These are a little pricier, but work better for a date (not so obviously cheap places). For Thai try Springroll’s (the seafood pad thai, satay chicken mango salad and sexy summer rolls are a feast for two when split). Ethiopian is a great choice to make you seem worldly (although you can spoil it by making the joke “I thought they didn’t have food in Ethiopia”, which I can’t ever refrain from doing) which is yummy at Ethiopian House. Be warned, you’ll be eating with your hands.  Their coffee ceremony is pricey, but fun to do once (tell your date that coffee originate in Ethiopia and they might be impressed).

So that should hopefully provide some new eateries to try on the cheap. Anyone have any suggestions for places I’ve overlooked or have had a bad experience at any of these?

After writing this I could really go for a curried goat…