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Announcements

Another day…

Unfortunately July was a month of changes for me. Half way through our trip to New York my girlfriend and I decided to go our separate ways, so I’m now renting (short term) a room in a house with a couple of other men. Towards the end of the month the project at the contract I’ve been working on finished up. I was going to be moved to another project, but it turned out they needed a different skill set then what I had, so we mutually agreed to terminate the contract early. I’m hoping to take a little time off, then get back into things.

My monthly fixed costs are slightly different:
Rent – $500
VOIP – $22.45
internet – $45
Total: $567.45

During the move and settling in, my variable expense went up a bit, but I’m working to get them back down.

Categories
Personal Finance

What to do with Xmas Bonus?

I get a year end bonus which normally adds about 10% to my annual salary. It’s a bit early to be thinking about what to do with it but I’d thought I’d write a post since I can’t decide. Basically the choices are to put it into my rrsp or my mortgage or split it up and do both.

Up to now this money has always gone in to the mortgage and in some cases paid for vacation trips.

This year I’d like to only use it for mortgage and/or rrsp and nothing else. Since I feel my mortgage is excessive and I worry about it a lot more than the size of my rrsp, it seems like a no brainer to put the money into the mortgage. However at the same time if I put it into the mortgage then that means I’m paying a lot of tax (43.38% to be exact) on it, which I can defer if I put it into the rrsp.

One of the strategies I was thinking about was to see how the markets perform this year and perhaps decide based on that. For example if my rrsp (I’ll use my portfolio as the index) does better than say 5% then I’ll put all the money into the mortgage – I’m thinking that considering how well the markets have done, if they continue to do well then maybe they should be avoided. Bernstein says to buy when things are looking their worst – not at their best. On the other hand if the rrsp goes down at least 5% this year then I’ll put the whole bonus into the rrsp. If the return is between -5% and +5% then I’ll figure out some ratio and split the bonus between the mortgage and rrsp.

A couple of other things – even without the bonus we make quite a bit of extra mortgage payments. We also contribute a fair bit to the rrsp on a normal basis . Regardless of the my choice, neither the rrsp or mortgage will be ignored!

Any opinions?

Categories
Real Estate

5 Ways to Make (or lose) Money With Investment Properties – Part 1 – Cash Flow

Its been a while since I wrote about real estate investing. One of the common comments from people who have considered investing in real estate (and decided against it) is that the returns are too low for the labour invested. This is fair, however, like any investment, its worthwhile to estimate, as exactly as possible, WHAT the returns will be, THEN decide whether its worth putting the time into it or not. For me, I can get a $40 / hour contract fairly easily for full time work, and my real expected stock returns is around 6% or so (with dividend aristocrats or indexing), so I want my ROI to be at least 6% of money invested + $40 / hour. My experience has been that this is quite easy to achieve, and in this series I’ll detail how.

For each post, I’ll try to detail how you can make money (or lose it) using that concept so that you can hopefully appreciate the risk/reward trade-off a little better.

For a property that you’re considering purchasing, you’ll want to make sure that it has a “positive cash flow” (which simply means that it makes money every month). Some people count on the other ways to make money (to be detailed in later posts) and ignore cashflow (the property costs them money every month). This is a very bad idea (especially early on in your real estate investing career).

Very roughly, a property price should be at most 100 times the monthly rent (Gross Rent Multiplier – GRM).

To start, estimate the market rent for the property you’re considering. Newspaper classifieds and craigslist are probably your best method of doing this (although the management office of the building, if you buy a condo, can give you a good idea of the average rent). Try to be realistic with this, and not just assume people will pay top dollar because its your property (if its a run down property, err on the low side of the range). Renters as a whole are quite savvy about what market rent is (even if they can’t articulate it, they’ll feel like a place is “reasonable” or “expensive” after seeing it).

This is your income. Next, add up the property taxes, utilities (if you pay them), condo fees, insurance, and management fees (if you’re hiring a property manager or management company). Add on 5% of the rent for vacancies, and 0.17% of the purchase price for maintenance (assuming you’ll spend 2% of the value of the property on maintenance each year – you could drop this for a condo since you condo fees include the external maintenance).

If your expenses are more then 45% of the income, you should probably keep looking.

E.g.: I bought my condo for ~$130,000, and rent it for $1300 (I had hoped to get a higher rent, but in the end got just about exactly 1/100th of the purchase price). Condo fees are ~$500, property taxes are ~$100, insurance is ~$40. Vacancies would be another $65, and maintenance (at ~0.8% of purchase price) would be about $100.

805/1300 = 62% (so do as I say, not as I do 🙂 ). This also doesn’t include my labour managing the property (many real estate investors make the mistake of considering their labour as wortheless).

I was willing to pay the 17% premium as my “tuition” for learning more about real estate, but will certainly expect better deals in the future. Condos are notoriously bad investments for a variety of reasons. The condo fees are usually quite an inefficient way to cover expenses (its a tragedy of the commons problem if you’re familiar with the concept), there’s a lot of competition (with many people becoming landlords when they decided to hold on to their condo and let it appreciate – since these are often naive investors, they’ll charge rents that don’t cover their costs and drive investors out of the market, and because its a small unit, you don’t get any of the economics of scale that you would with, say, an apartment building).

Once the 45% of expenses is paid, the remaining 55% of the monthly rent is for servicing debt and your cashflow. The higher down-payment you make, the smaller the debt to be serviced, and the more money in your pocket each month (of course, at a higher cost).

$1300*0.55*12 = $8,580 / year. $8,580 / $130,000 = 6.6% (in an ideal world). Given I’m earning $495 / month after expenses (1300-805, see above): $495*12 = $5,940 / year. $5,940 / $130,000 = 4.6%. Therefore, as long as my mortgage is under 4.6% this property would be cash flow positive with 0% down (with vacancies and maintenance factored in). I made a 25% down payment and got an interest rate of 5.05% so I had enough wiggle room to make it work (and in the end I’m clearing about $250 / month from the property).

PLEASE keep in mind that the 6.6%/4.6% above is JUST the interest. If you’re right at the edge, the property might be covering its own interest but you may have to put in money for the principle portion of the payment. This is less then ideal (but certainly better than having to put in money to cover the principle and part of the interest).

Currently, in order to sleep at night, I like to make sure that I could carry my entire real estate holdings using income from my day job. Obviously this will get more difficult as I expand beyond one property, but the chances of all my properties being vacant (or having tenants in each property refusing to pay rent or leave) will be less likely as well. Once I’ve had the properties operating for a period of time and have a better estimate of the expected risk and returns I’ll probably forget this criteria (however I think its a very good “safety net” for your first year or two).

Given just the cash-flow returns, it would be easy to question why anyone would get into real estate when you can get GICs paying 5% these days and can expect a long-term pre-inflation return of 10% on stocks. In the next post in this series, I’ll discuss leverage.

Categories
Announcements

Carnival of Personal Finance

I made it into the Carnival of Personal Finance today which is being hosted over at Plonkee Monkey’s blog. My post about looking for a house called “House Wars” was entered.

Feel free to check out the carnival!

Categories
Personal Finance

Pay Yourself First (Again)?

I just started reading the book “Smart Couples Finish Rich” and one of the first things it mentions is to “pay yourself first”. This advice is similar to the “Wealthy Barber” and probably every other personal finance book ever written. Usually this involves getting money deducted from your bank account automatically so that you don’t miss it and it gets saved for retirement or vacations or whatever.

While I think this is a good strategy for a lot of people, in some cases it’s really bad advice. In particular, people that have excessive debt should be focusing their saving efforts on their debts and nothing else – not their retirements or vacations. Now someone in that situation might ask why they shouldn’t be paying themselves first as well and the answer is that they already have paid themselves, in some cases they might have overpaid themselves by a long shot. The reality is that debt results from spending more than you earn, in some cases this can’t be helped but in most cases it results from a deliberate decision to spend more money ie on a bigger, more expensive house (I did this), more vacations, newer cars etc. Sometimes it results from just not keeping track of your finances properly. Regardless of how you end up in the situation of having excessive debt, you eventually have to pay the piper. Some people choose to tackle debt head on by cutting their spending and reducing the debt as fast as they can. Others will cut back a bit and reduce the debt at their leisure. The remainder will ignore it completely and will pay during their retirement when they have a lower standard of living because they still have debt they have to service.

Please note that I’m not referring to deductible debt ie the type you have with an investment loan.

Do you have a lot of debt? How do you know if it’s excessive?

Categories
Personal Finance

Decreasing ROI with Increasing Networth

In Bernstein’s “Four Pillars of Investing” he talks about how superstar fund managers often attract more and more money, such that they can’t get the returns they were making in the past (since to buy the “good deals”, in the quantities they need, would drive the price up before they could buy as much as they wanted).

Consider a widget that is worth $30 and we find a supply of them in a store for $10. Say we can only buy them one at a time, and as we buy them the owner increases the price by $1. We’re very happy with this situation if we only have $10 (we buy one, sell it for $30 and go and buy ourselves an ice cream with the $20 profit). Say you have $50,000 instead. You’ll buy 20 widgets, at which point they cost $30 each to buy (so aren’t worth buying any more). While we’re happy that we got some good deals, we got a slightly worse deal with each widget we bought (we only saved $1 on the last one). On this transaction we spent $390 to make $600. Good deal, but probably not the best way to invest $50,000.

I think there’s a great deal of this in life generally. Often the first $1 we invest gives us the best return, provided we’re knowledgable and making rational choices instead of investing in Pro-line. Say I’m on the verge of bankruptcy and am paying 96% annually on a payday loan. If I pay down that loan by $1, I’m making an amazing 96% ROI! Say I pay off the payday loan and put $1 to a 26% Mastercard debt, a 26% ROI is pretty hard to find too! Someone who has no investments or debt can be VERY focused on any investment he makes. Say he buys some materials, builds crafts with them, then sells the crafts. He can probably make a good ROI on this (it wouldn’t be so good if you factored in his time, but if you just look at it in terms of dollars and cents its probably going to be quite good). My mother is a retired teacher and likes to knit. If she were ever going to sell a sweater she made, she’d do very well looking at it from the perspective of how much the sweater is worth vs. what the wool cost her. HOWEVER, as soon as she factors in her time, it becomes a VERY expensive sweater (no one would buy it).

That’s the other advantage of people just starting out, their labour is probably not very valuable, so they can pursue high-labour strategies to pump up their ROI. As your networth increases, the time you can devote to growing each dollar decreases, and you get a diminishing return from any such effort (it’d be a lot easier to work at a crappy job if the alternative was starving on the street instead of working for a newer model Porsche).

Obviously its better to be in the situation of earning investment income from more money instead of less (I’d much rather have $100,000 invested at 5% then $1,000 invested at 7%). My only point with this post is that when you’re starting out, you have a labour “competitive advantage” over wealthier investors. People who take advantage of this by looking for “hands-on” investment opportunities are probably quite smart (they’re avoiding competition from the rich people).

 

Categories
Opinion

Competitive Advantage

I couldn’t find an explaination of competitive advantage that I liked, so I quickly wrote this up myself. If anyone has a link to a good on-line description of this, please post it as a comment below.

Say there are two companies (or countries, or people) producing red widgets and blue widgets. Lazy company makes red widgets for $20 each and blue widgets for $10 each. Productive company makes both types of widgets for $8 each. Assuming the two companies can trade with each other in order to maximize their numbers of both widgets, what is the best widget for each to produce?

One argument would be that Productive company shouldn’t trade at all and just produce all its own widgets (since it can produce both cheaper than Lazy company). This is a mistake.

Say Lazy company produces 10 blue widgets (costing it $100) and Productive company produces 10 red widgets (costing it $80). If lazy company then trades Productive company 5 blue widgets for 4 red widgets both are now better off. Lazy company has 5 blue widgets and 4 red widgets (which would have cost it $130 to make itself, but instead it got them for $100) and Productive company now has 6 blue widgets and 5 red widgets (which would have cost it $88 to produce, but instead it got them for $80).

Both companies are better off after the trade (otherwise why would they have made the deal?) and have more widgets for a lower cost. Lazy company, in spite of have greater productions costs, has a COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE producing blue widgets.

Socialists would say that Productive company is taking advantage of lazy company (because it has more widgets for lower cost), and since it has more efficient production methods it should give widgets to Lazy company (and this is at the core of why I hate socialists).

Any time there is a difference in production abilities, a competitive advantage will occur which allows everyone to be better off if they focus on what they have an advantage producing then trade with the other producers (and this is why trade isolation is silly and destructive).

Categories
Book Review

A Fool and His Money – Book Review

This book is written by John Rothchild who took a year off in order to learn how to make lots of money through investments and then write a book about it. He did learn a lot about investments and the various financial institutions that deal with them, but he ended up losing most of his money. Luckily his sense of humour makes this book a pretty good read since there is very little useful investment information in it.

I would rate Rothchild as one of the worst investors of all time. Even though he manages to figure out some good investment advice such as an investor would be better off just buying the market rather than trying to beat it, he continually makes investment decisions that seem to be based more on trying new types of investments ie options and investing in commodities rather than on any type of investment knowledge. Even his equity buys are based on hot tips.

He interviews with a lot of industry employees including traders, analysts and executives, he evens visits with a forecaster/astrologist who apparently is the most accurate forecaster of all the people Rothchild meets with in the books. The option spread that he bought as a result of the astrologist’s recommendation is one of the few investments that makes him money.

Rothchild manages to visit a lot of financial institutions including the New York Federal Reserve Bank otherwise known as the “Fed”, sneaks onto the floor of the New York Stock Exchange and gets quite a few interviews with various investment personnel in the industry. One particularly funny section describes how he managed to get an interview with a highly paid analyst covering Gillette which he had just bought. From that analyst he manages to see several other top analysts and finds out that they all get their information straight from Gillette and their main concerns are keeping Gillette and their big clients happy and finding out what the other analysts had to say about Gillette.

If you are looking for an amusing read with a bit of financial information thrown in for good measure then this book is probably for you.