Categories
Investing

My Portfolio – Asset Allocation for Fixed Income

Today I’ll talk about the fixed income or bonds portion of our portfolio which represents 25% of the entire portfolio. This section of the portfolio is a combination of GICs, real return bonds ETF (iShares XRB), short term bond ETF (iShares XSB), and a bond mutual fund.
The 25% bond portion is made up of 20% bonds (see detail list below) and 5% real return bonds. Note – real return bonds are referred to as treasury inflation-protected securities in the US.  I don’t know if the real return bond allocation is high enough so if anyone has any thoughts then feel free to let me know. According to Bernstein and this from Canadian Capitalist, long term bonds are not worth owning because they don’t give a return that matches their risk (historically at least). With this in mind, I’m planning to buy the XSB ETF (short term bond – duration 2.56 years) in order to lower the average duration of our bond portfolio to an estimated 3.5 years. I could lower it further by owning less of the bond mutual fund and buying more of the ETF but this is what I have for now.

These are the weightings of each security as a percentage of the entire portfolio:

GICs – five years or less – 7%

Bond mutual fund duration 6 years MER = 0.65% , 5%

Short term bond ETF duration 2.56 years, MER = 0.25%, 8%

Real return bond ETF – MER = 0.35%, 5%

In case you’re wondering why we own GICs, a mutual fund and an ETF for the non-real return portion of our fixed income, the GICs are my wife’s, the mutual fund is very useful for rebalancing, and the ETF has a low duration and a low cost.

One other thing I learned recently about fixed income – when buying or renewing GICs you can negotiate the rate and can often get a quarter or half percent more.

Categories
Personal Finance

June Networth

On June 1st (actually May 31st, I got excited and couldn’t wait until the next day 😉 ) I chugged through my financial figures to have a look at what my current networth is. The variables that I’m considering are:

Mortgage: $93,174.21
E-Trade: $10,058.30
Cash: $11,145.49
Condo: $143,500.00
Loan: $5,000

Networth: $76,529.58

The condo value is debatable (until I sell it, the value is somewhat unknown), but $143,500 is quite a conservative figure (similar units in the same building are selling in the $160’s). The loan is basically $5,000 that I lent to a friend (I know, I know, bad idea) that I’m hoping to get back in September. The stock portion is very volatile, so I’m not sure what the best way to include it is (I commented on this on “A Canadian and her money” and I think it annoyed her :-), but that’s the shares’ value as of June 1st.

This is a 9.29% gain ($7,096) over May, which is good but primarily comes from a lucrative contract I’m working right now (and suffering every day for, so I don’t think these gain rates are sustainable). This contract is paying around $6400 / month, and the rest came from getting my tax refund, a GIC coming due, some gains on the stocks I bought, etc (e.g. lucky circumstances, nothing I can repeat month-to-month). Additionally, there’ll be taxes to be paid on this next year (no withholding at source), so this is a before-taxes number (I’m expecting to be at around a 33% marginal tax rate next year).

Last months gain was around 7.82% ($5,539) which is probably closer to what I should expect.

My current estimate of my monthly expenses are around $2,140.00, which I’m trying to bring down, so my gross in May was somewhere around $9K).

I’m earning about $250 / month from my condo (I’ll post details on this later, but its around a 7.5% ROI), and an estimated $67 / month from the stocks and cash (assuming 4% return / year, I’m hopeful that the stocks will do significantly better then this). Therefore passive investments (before taxes) cover 14.8% of my monthly expenses. Given that my passive income was around $150 in December, this is an excellent gain (more than double the passive income in less than half a year).

I don’t really care too much about my assets vs. liabilities, so I won’t bother with that.

Categories
Investing

My Portfolio – Asset Classes

In this post I want to outline the basic asset classes that make up my portfolio and also to give some extra information on two classes (REITs (such as VNQ), and real return bonds) which I’m not as familiar with.

 

In the bonds area I have various bond products (ETF, mutual fund, GIC) and a real return bonds ETF.  Note – real return bonds are referred to as treasury inflation-protected securities in the US.

 

My equities are divided up into Canadian, US, international (Europe, Asia and Far East), emerging market and REITs. I’ll be posting soon about my exact proportions of these different areas.

 

 

REITs – Real Estate Investment Trusts

 

These are considered a separate asset class since real estate has a low correlation with other types of investments.

These securities are trusts that purchase properties and pay out a high percentage of their income in the form of dividends. This group was the only type of income trusts to be excluded from last year’s income trust tax change so investors have to be aware that government tax policy on REITs could change at any time. An example of a REIT is VNQ which trades on the AMEX and is run by Vanguard.

Canadian REITs trade on the TSX so they can be bought individually but I’m buying the iShares ETF XRE which represents the TSX Capped REIT Index.

 

This site has some great info on REITs.

 

 

Real Return Bonds

 

These are Government of Canada bonds that pay you a rate of return that is adjusted for inflation. Unlike regular bonds, this feature assures that your purchasing power is maintained regardless of the future rate of inflation.

These bonds can be purchased individually through any broker but I’ll be buying the iShares ETF XRB which represents the Scotia Capital Real Return Bond Index.

 

Bylo has a lot more details on these bonds.

 

Other Stuff

 

I noticed today that Middle Class Millionaire has a series on asset allocation as well – I thought it would be interesting to list some bloggers and their equity asset allocation along with their ages for comparison. This would have been better in yesterday’s post but better late than never! Please note that I’m including cash as part of the bond portion.

 

Middle Class Millionaire – age 27 – 95% to 100% equity

Outroupistache – mid 50’s – 70%

Canadian Capitalist – early 30’s – 80%

Moi – late 30’s – 75%

I’d love to hear from anyone else about what kind of asset allocation they have?

 

Categories
Announcements

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

I really love bank stocks, and have been quite happy with my BMO so far (given, we’re still on our honeymoon as I only bought it 2 weeks ago). CIBC would be nice with a slightly higher yield (its at 3% right now) as its payout ratio is the lowest of all the banks (at 34%) so in theory it has the most cash to pour money into dividends. I like their products (PC Financial is backed by CIBC) and the fact that they’re trying to develop internationally (they own a massive chunk of FirstCaribbean).

HOWEVER, 3% is just 3%. With BMO still up at 3.8% its pretty tough to consider other Canadian banks. When I start looking in other sectors (other than tobacco) things get even worse. Manulife Financial (MFC) looks quite a bit better then their competitor, however they have a relatively pitiful 5-year average dividend of 1.7% (its currently at 2.2%, so a good buy if you like the company). You’d think there’d be massive growth to compensate for such a low dividend, however their average 3 year dividend increase is comparable to BMO’s (26% vs. 23%). The stock increase in price hasn’t been that impressive compared to BMO (MFC grew at 12% vs BMO growing at 15%). One very nice thing about MFC in relation to BMO is that MFC’s current payout of 28% is much smaller then BMO’s massive 45%. I wish the insurance companies would pass more cash along to shareholders, but perhaps there is legislation that requires them to keep a certain amount of money on hand.

Maybe its just a case of different industries and the price of diversification, but banking definitely seems more lucrative than insurance.

Categories
Investing

My Portfolio – An Asset Allocation Decision

Last fall I sat down for the first time ever (after 13 years of owning mutual funds) and looked at all our investments and did an analysis to determine what our asset allocation was. As I recall we had over 90% equity and a good portion of that equity was in Canada. At that time I decided to make the equity/bond split to be 80%/20%. This was chosen somewhat arbitrarily although it seemed to be a good mix for a fairly aggressive portfolio with a long investment time horizon. I also changed the country mix in order to reduce the Canadian holdings down to about 30% of the equity portion.

At this point in time I will be revamping my portfolio once again since I decided to move about two thirds of our rrsp to a broker (Questrade) in order to convert it to ETFs. The remainder will stay in low cost mutual funds and GICs. I’ll be discussing some of the specific investments in future posts but I plan to start with the asset allocation since that’s the most important decision in my opinion.

The first asset allocation decision was to lower the equity portion of the portfolio down to 75% from 80% and to raise the bond portion up to 25%. I decided to do this mainly based on the research of William Bernstein (Four Pillars of Investing) which showed that having an equity portion of a portfolio higher than 25% wasn’t worth the extra risk since it usually didn’t result in a significantly higher return and of course results in more ups and downs with the market.

Interestingly enough Bernstein says that although 75% equity should be the maximum for an investment portfolio, 50% should be the minimum regardless of your age. The reason for this is that if you are retired and have a more conservative portfolio ( less than 50% equity ) then inflation is a bigger risk. Another great point he makes about asset allocation is that you should have a more conservative portfolio if you’re not sure if you can handle the volatility in a downturn. If you sell equities every time the market drops and then wait until it goes up before buying in again, then you are better off in a more conservative portfolio (ie 50/50) if that allows you to stay invested during the downturns.

Categories
Personal Finance

Post Dated Checks

What should happen if you put a post-dated check into an bank’s ATM before the check’s date?

In my naive view of the world, the bank should put a hold on all funds deposited in the ATM. When they are verified by a human, cash should immediately be credited, and check funds should be released when the check clears (or if you have a good relationship with your bank released immediately and the funds pulled back if there’s a problem with the check). If the date hasn’t occurred yet, the check should be held until that date, then processed.

Tellers do this if you try to deposit a post-dated check. They’ll accept it (at least at my bank), but warn you that it won’t be processed until the date on the check.

I did this with a check that was dated June 1st. I deposited it on May 28th (while I was thinking of it) to one of TD Canada Trust’s ATMs, and expected the funds to be released on the 1st. Instead, they processed the check, and tried to pull the funds out of a Bank of Montreal account. The person who wrote me the check hadn’t transferred funds in to cover it yet (why should he, its a post dated check?) and the check bounced out of his account (and charged him $5). We both called our banks, and the only thing they could offer was that I shouldn’t deposit post-dated checks in the ATMs.

His bank wouldn’t even refund the $5, which from my perspective is totally outrageous (and I’m a Bank of Montreal shareholder!!!). They said they’d look at the check, and if it was cashed before the date on it they’d refund his $5, but they charge $5 to look at the check, so he wouldn’t get any money back (how offensive is that?).

AND, he’s going to have to write me a new check (which I told him to take $5 off of since he definitely shouldn’t be paying for it – he didn’t do anything wrong). Apparently TD Canada Trust won’t charge me anything when the check is returned (which is good), but they’ll pull the funds back out of my account (which would have caused me problems, but since I’m forewarned I canceled a transfer so it should be all good on my end).

All they’d have to do to fix this flaw in their process is have the person who opens the deposit envelope check the check and make sure the date isn’t in the future. If it is, then put it in a file for processing on the proper day (and if its far in the future, maybe put a hold of the depositor’s account). Simple, but not something they’re willing to do.

Morals of the story: Take post-dated checks to be deposited to the tellers, don’t put them in machines and its far better to be a bank owner then a bank customer.

Categories
Opinion

The High Price of Living Cheap

While I like to consider myself frugal, my friend and family tends to view me as cheap. I like to get a bargain, which, as failings go, doesn’t seem too bad to me.

HOWEVER, even though I’m cheap, I like to consider myself quite generous. One of the most insightful things I’ve had a friend say about me is that I’m generous to others, but not to myself. I’ll leave the analysis for my time on the couch (yeah right, as if I’d pay for therapy!!!). Instead I’d like to write today about how it can often cost you money being too cheap.

I tend to wear clothes and use “stuff” as long as I can get away with. I have socks with holes, and just recently was persuaded to give up the winter jacket I’ve been wearing since high school (I’m now in my early 30’s). I don’t put a high value on what other’s think of my appearance, and certainly don’t place any value on displays of wealth, so if it keeps me warm and doesn’t offend people around me, I’ll keep wearing clothes.

For the most part, I think this works to my advantage with clothing. With other items though, sometimes this backfires. I finally bought a high-quality travel mug (Thermos Brand) from Wal-mart for $10 (yes, I’m a big spender). Previous to buy this one, I was using two el-cheap dollar store travel mugs (bought for $2 a piece). The first cheap one started leaking, so I replaced it with a similar make that start leaking almost immediately (it was like a trick dribble glass, when you’re drinking from it, it’d spill liquid down your front). Surprisingly I put up with it from the first mug for a few weeks (gotta get my $2 worth) and finally broke down and fixed the situation when I saw co-workers eying the wet marks on my shirts.

To be fair, it was usually tea, and I buy stain resistant shirts, so once it had dried there wasn’t a mark, but…

Another example of being “penny wise, pound foolish” was I was visiting a friend in the Bay area and decided I wanted a portable dvd player to use on trips. I’d debated the purchase for a few months and finally decided it would be worth it when traveling to be able to bring along a few movies and watch them. I wanted a cheap one, and wanted an external battery (since the built-in play time is quite miserable on most of them). After running around between all the major stores that would sell them (Target, Wal-Mart, Best-Buy, Good Guys, etc, etc, etc) buying one, realizing that the external battery was incompatible, returning it and finally selecting another, we spent an entire day shopping (out of a time limited visit) and I saved $30 (not including gas and wear-and-tear on my friends vehicle) off of the player and battery I saw at the first store we visited. Not my finest hour.

I think a fallacy many people fall into is not valuing their own time. I viewed my friend’s and my day as worthless, when in actual fact it was worth far MORE than $30. In real-estate people often brag about their profit on a property, but don’t include their own time and labour on the project (magic fairies did the paint job and other renovations I suppose). Again, they’re not valuing their time, if they factor it in the project might not compare that favourably to getting a second job and investing in stocks.

The other fallacy I often fall into is “Sunk Cost“. When money is spent and there’s no way to get it back, often the best way to make a decision is to ignore anything that’s already been spent, make the best decision from your PRESENT perspective (and try to use any new information on future decisions).

I think there’s real value in looking at where you spend your money and trying to make sure you’re spending wisely on the things you value most. However, cheap for cheap’s sake can often be an expensive way to live your life.

Categories
Investing

“Personal” Yield With Dividends

I love dividends.

Growing up I started investing with GICs and Canada Savings Bonds as a child when interest rates were around 10% (I turned down a 12% GIC at a credit union because I didn’t like the idea of having to buy a share of the union for $40). Naive me, I thought this was a standard ROI and dreamed of future wealth. Fast forward 20 years and the reality of GICs out pacing inflation by 1 or 2% sinks in they start to look a lot more like a wealth protection device than a wealth creation device.

I dabbled in stocks and lost 75% of my money during the tech boom.

That’s why I was so excited when I came across the ideas of dividend-paying (regular money payouts from the company to you the shareholder) blue chips (established companies). It seems to have ALMOST the long term stability of GICs, with the growth potential of the stock market. Pretty sweet.

One of the most fundamental ideas for good dividend stocks is the “Dividend Yield” which is how much you should expect to make on your investment in the next year (a dividend yield of 4% on $100 of stock means you should earn $4 in the next year through dividend payments). For Canadian companies, this dividend is taxed more favourably than interest income (the higher your tax bracket the bigger difference this makes).

Even more exciting is the idea that good companies should regularly increase their dividends. This is like a low-taxed GIC that will randomly increase its payout! There’s a small chance that the company will cut its dividend (which in addition to the lower payments would also cause the stock price to plummet), but that risk is the price for the more attractive gains.

Some people like to talk about “personal yields” which is the dividend-yield of a stock, based on the price you purchased it at. So going back to the above example, if the company increased their dividend payments by 25% to $5 and the stock price increased so that your shares were now worth $125, the dividend-yield is still 4%, but your PERSONAL YIELD is 5% (since you bought the stock for $100).

The fallacy with this outlook is that your shares are now worth $125. You’re ROI is $29 (29% in one year, not too shabby! Of course capital gains taxes would kick in when you sold, but still…), but if you decide to keep the stock and keep collecting dividends, there’s nothing magical about this “pile” of your money and the dividend-yield is still the same (if you like the looks of another stock that is paying 5%, the $125 might be better off there).

By bragging that your new dividend is 5%, you’re lumping the capital gains in with the dividend payments, which isn’t really rational.

Say I bought a GIC for $1000, invested it for a year at 4%, then reinvested the $1040 for 4% for another year. Am I earning 4% or 4.16% in the second year? Clearly I’m making 4%, I’m just confusing things if I want to lump in the $40 gains from the previous year. The only way to decide between buying another GIC or putting the money elsewhere is to ignore the past, look at the current value, and pick what looks like the best investment.

Landlords make a similar mistake when they buy a house and start patting themselves on the back about the financials after a decade. Rents should increase, and you need to compare them to the CURRENT value of the property to see how the property is doing as an investment, not the original purchase price.

Compounding is good, but don’t use it to fool yourself.

There’s probably an economic term for this fallacy, does anyone know it? I think the basic idea is when you segment your money and start looking at the “pools” as separate, you’re in self-delusion territory. If you want to evaluate an investment, factor in the CURRENT value of the vehicle, not the original price to determine the ROI going forward.