Categories
Real Estate

A Practical Way To Estimate And Budget For Home Maintenance Costs

As a home owner, I’ve seen various methods of estimating annual home maintenance costs. These methods involve calculating a percentage of your home value – usually between one to four per cent, and using that value as the annual maintenance estimate.

Being a bit of a skeptic, I never had much faith in these estimation methods, since there is never any kind of logic to them or analysis supporting the numbers.

It doesn’t make sense to me that your home value should determine maintenance costs, especially if you live in an area where the land value is the majority of your house value. The cost of maintaining your land is far less than the cost to maintaining a house.

Another problem with these estimates is that a poorly maintained, older home will be worth less and consequently have a lower estimated maintenance cost than a new, well-maintained house – clearly this makes no sense at all, since the poorly maintained house will likely need more maintenance and should have a higher estimated maintenance cost.

A third issue is that from a budgeting perspective,  home maintenance often involves high cost items that occur infrequently.  For example; a $12,000 roof that lasts roughly 20 years. Calculating an annual cost for that roof might be an interesting exercise, but it’s unlikely to actually help you efficiently budget for it. And will you still be living in that same house 20 years from now?

A better way to calculate your home maintenance costs

A better method is to look at the major components of your house that will need replacing at some point and do the following steps for each component:

  • Estimate the replacement cost
  • Determine the life expectancy
  • Determine the current age of each item
  • Calculate the estimated remaining life expectancy
  • Rank the house components in order of increasing estimated remaining life expectancy and then plan for any expenses expected in the next five years.
  • Watch for any upcoming “expense clusters” – A high amount of maintenance costs in a short time period

Let’s do this exercise for my house

First I will list all the big items in my house that will need replacing at some point:

  • Gas stove
  • Refrigerator
  • Dishwasher
  • Dryer
  • Washing machine
  • Deck
  • Furnace
  • Air Conditioner
  • Gas water heater
  • Roof
  • Gutters
  • Windows
  • Fencing

The next step is to determine the estimated life spans.

Here is a source for the life expectancy of home components which has good data.

Then we find out the current age of each component.

The current age of most of my items was fairly easy, since a lot of them were replaced just after buying the house. For older items, you can often look on the component itself to see if there is a date on it. Windows, furnaces, air conditioner, hot water tanks should all have a date on them somewhere.

If you don’t know the age of an item, just take a guess. For example if you bought your house 12 years ago and haven’t replaced the roof, there is a very good chance that the roof is at least 12 years old. 🙂 If the roof isn’t falling apart or leaking, it’s probably less than 20 years old. Pick a number halfway between 12 and 20, say 16 years and there’s your estimated roof age.

Now we need to figure out the replacement costs.

This can be difficult since there can be a wide variety of options when replacing an item. I wouldn’t worry about trying to get accurate figures – for this exercise, any reasonable guess will do. Once you get close to replacing a component, then you can worry about the exact cost.

Check here for some cost estimate guidelines.

If you are really clueless about how to collect any of this data, see if you have a copy of the original inspection report which should contain some of this information. A more expensive option is to hire a home inspector to check out your house – they can give you an idea of the condition, age and replacement cost of the various parts.

Calculate “Remaining life expectancy”

Finally, I need to calculate the “Remaining life expectancy” for each item by subtracting the current age of each item from the life expectancy. For example if my roof is 14 years old and the life expectancy is 20 years, the “remaining life expectancy” will be 20 minus 14, which is six years.

Here is a table showing all my major maintenance costs, ages and life expectancies. Note that I put in a “purchase year” for each item, so that I can look at this table again in a few years and the current age (calculated) will be automatically updated. Most of my estimated costs are very ball park.

Just for fun, I took all the items, calculated an individual annual cost and summed that up to get an idea of my average annual maintenance costs. It came out to $3,186 per year. Throw in a few bucks to cover smaller maintenance costs not listed and my annual house maintenance costs are $3,500 per year. But as we’ll see later, that annual figure is not very useful for planning or budgeting.

My maintenance expenses

Now that we have all the data we need – let’s rank all the items by the remaining life expectancy so we can get an idea of upcoming maintenance expenses by time period.

I suggest that you focus on the next five years only. Beyond that is just too far in the future. Most single maintenance items are not so expensive that five years isn’t enough to save up for them.

Look at any expenses in that five year time period and think about how you can plan for them. If your budget is tight and you need a furnace in four years, setting aside some money each month might be a prudent idea. On the other hand, if you have a high savings rate and a decent emergency fund – perhaps you can wait until closer to the actual replacement date to save some cash or even just buy on credit and quickly pay back the loan. The estimated life expectancy dates are not very accurate, so you don’t want to have $5,000 cash sitting around waiting for a furnace to die, if you have better uses for that money.

It’s also worthwhile to look beyond five years for the case where there are a lot of items up for replacement at the same time (“expense cluster”). This situation could require more advance planning (which could include moving). This might happen where someone moved into a new build home or did major renovations.

Ok, let’s get back to my case study:

 

Maintenance items by time period.

I’ve ranked the items by the expected expiry dates. While I’m mainly going to focus on items that need replacing in the next five years, I’m also going to note the “expense cluster” that I’m going to face in about 12 years.

Now I will look at the list and do some planning.

These two items are overdue for replacement:

Air conditioning – This item is old and could die any minute. However, it works fine and I’m not planning to replace it until it stops working. Because of our emergency fund and high savings rate, the $3,500 replacement cost will not be an issue. Action plan: Monitor indoor air temperature on hot days.

Deck – My deck might actually be a funny story if it belonged to someone else. It is ancient – I’ve estimated it’s 21 years old, but it could be 50 for all I know. Every year I replace a couple more rotten boards. The reason I haven’t replaced the deck is because we have water problems with our basement that will be addressed in the future. There is no point in getting a new deck if we might need to dig up around the house for water proofing. When we tackle the basement project, a new deck will be included in the budget at that time. Action plan – Keep rebuilding deck one board at a time.

The following items are due for replacement within the next five years:

Refrigerator, dishwasher, gas water heater, washing machine – These items have a total replacement cost of almost $4,000, which is not a worrisome amount. Given that the estimated expiry won’t happen for at least four years, I’m not going to worry about these expenses at this time. Action plan – Nothing.

Fence – This is another item I have no idea of how old it is. It’s not in bad shape and the reality is that I will probably just do small repairs if it starts having problems. It’s extremely unlikely that the fence will get replaced anytime in the next ten years. Action plan – Don’t lean on fence.

All the remaining items have expiry dates that fall outside of my five year window of concern, so they will be ignored for now. I will take note of the last four items in the list – furnace, windows, roof and gutters. These items represent $35,000 of costs within a 3.5 year window. This is what I was referring to when I mentioned the idea of an “expense cluster“.

This expense cluster will eventually require some planning, but it’s still too far off (11+ years) to plan for now. It’s likely that we’ll start saving an extra $5,000 per year starting a year or two before the cluster hits in order to be able to pay for those expenses.

This exercise shows why an annual maintenance estimate is not very useful. In my case, I don’t have a lot of costs coming up in the next several years, so if I saved $3,500 per year – that cash would be sitting around doing nothing. I’d much rather put it into my mortgage. Conversely, if you have a house where there are a lot of upcoming expenses, the $3,500 per year budget probably won’t be enough.

Conclusion

Because I have a decent emergency fund and a high savings rate, I don’t need to do any kind of special budgeting for house maintenance now, since I don’t have a lot of costs coming up in the next few years. Someone with a tight budget might have to set aside a “house maintenance” fund to handle these costs.

Every house will be different – It’s important to analyze the components of your house in order to plan out your future house maintenance costs.

Some more thoughts

This concept of future budgeting can include items other than house maintenance items. If you are planning/hoping for renovations in the future – add them on the “maintenance calendar” as well. Even big ticket non-house items like new cars, “trip of a lifetime” vacations can be added in.

Specific budgeting for future items is not always practical. If you just bought a new roof for $10,000, are you really going to start saving $500/year in a “roof fund” for the next 20 years? That’s just not a good use of your money.

One of the best ways to deal with future expenses where it’s not certain about the timing is to have an emergency fund and a high savings rate. Anything you can do to improve your current financial position will help you deal with future expenses.

Problems with using percentage of home value estimates with examples

Land value skews the estimates

As I discussed in this post; How to value real estate, the land value can make up a majority of a house purchase price. Especially in an urban setting.

Using a percentage estimate for a maintenance budget means that a home owner in a popular area will have a higher maintenance estimate than someone who lives out in the country and has a lower land value.

For example – Take a two-story 1,200 square foot house. Let’s say the house value (not counting the land) is $150,000. If this house is sitting in an expensive area of Toronto, the total value might be $700,000. If the house is out in the country, perhaps the total value is only $200,000. If we use a maintenance estimate of 2% of the house value, that gives us $14,000 per year for the big city house and only $4,000 per year for the country house. Given that this estimate methodology gives us two very different results on identical houses indicates that it’s quite flawed.

Older, crappier houses will negatively influence maintenance estimate, but probably need more maintenance.

If we ignore land value, a house that is in great shape will be worth more than a run-down house that needs lots of maintenance. The percentage estimate will incorrectly conclude that the run-down house needs less maintenance, which is nonsense.

Example – Let’s take our $200,000 country house which is made up of $50,000 land and a $150,000 house. This house is very well maintained. Let’s say there is a very similar house on the adjacent lot, except this house is much older and hasn’t been well maintained. The second house is only worth $150,000, which is made up of $50,000 land and a $100,000 building value.

The percentage estimation method will tell us that the well maintained house should have an annual maintenance budget of $4,000 (2% of $200,000), but the run-down house only needs $3,000 per year (2% of $150,000). This is clearly incorrect, since it’s very likely that the cheaper house will need more maintenance.

How do you budget for home maintenance? Anyone else miss the good old “rental” days?

Categories
Announcements

LinkStuff – Globe & Mail Online Chat Edition

On Wednesday I participated in a Globe & Mail online Q&A chat on RESPs – you can read all the questions and answers here.

The Q&A was a lot of fun. I wasn’t sure what to expect in the way of questions, but there were a lot of good topics covered. Thanks to Roma Luciw and Katherine Scarrow for setting it up.

The Globe & Mail also published an excerpt from my e-book “How to withdraw from your RESP” this week.

For those keeping track at home, I was in the Globe twice last week and twice this week. I’m wondering when they will have had enough of me? 🙂

On with the links

Dan Ariely says that investment advisors ask the wrong questions when discussing retirement planning.

Blunt Bean Counter had a good article called Who is your wealth management quarterback?

Echo is sitting around and wondering what he should do about his RRSP.

Michael James warns that some brokerages won’t give you the preferred rate unless you ask.

My Own Advisor reveals his favourite Canadian equity ETFs.

The Oblivious Investor discusses a conflict in retirement savings. Is the money for living or for your estate?

A few more links

Categories
Frugal

Compare Unit Prices – Especially When Buying Steam Whistle Beer

When people fill up their cars with gas, they try to get the best price. All the gas stations list their price for a litre of gas (gallon for Americans), which makes it very easy to compare unit prices.  One litre of gas at gas station A is exactly the same as a litre of gas at gas station B.

For most other items, it’s not that simple. Grocery stores (or more accurately the food manufacturers that supply them) are the worst. They will shrink your favourite product, so you don’t even think to compare unit prices. They also like to put out an “economy size” which has a higher unit price.

Smart consumers cut through all the bull and compare the unit prices, so they know exactly how much they are paying.

Four pack of large cans - $11.00

I can’t claim to be the smartest consumer, but I did feel duped the other day after buying some Steam Whistle, which is my favourite beer.

They used to just offer regular bottles (341 ml) and large cans (500 ml). It was obvious to me that the cans represented a much better deal. In fact, the cost for the bottled beer was $0.66 for 100 ml which is 25% more than the $0.53 for 100 ml of canned beer. A significant difference, I’d say.

Recently, I paid a visit to the local store and one of the clerks told me about a new six pack of cans from Steam Whistle. The case of six cans was $3.50 more than the cost of buying four separate cans, but she made it sound like the six pack was made up of the large cans. After buying the six pack, I realized that the cans were in fact, not large (500 ml), but disappointingly normal in size (355 ml) and I knew I’d been had.

Sure enough, the pricing for the small cans was $0.65/100 ml, which is just a bit less than the bottled price, but a whopping 23% more than the unit price of the large cans.

Conclusion

Don’t ever assume anything from anyone. If you want the best deal for an item, you have to understand the pricing and the sizes involved.
Steam Whistle is already one of the more expensive beers on the market – don’t make the same mistake I did and over pay for it!

Please note that I have subtracted the cost of the deposit, before calculating the unit beer costs.

Categories
Investing

How To Find A Fee-Only Financial Advisor In Canada

I received a question from Lily Leung of ExploreForAYear.com who asked about finding a fee-only financial advisor in Toronto for a younger investor:

Quick question on financial advisors – a friend was asking me about how to a financial advisor (she’s in Toronto), do you have any suggestions on resources on:
1.) How to select an advisor
2.) Directory of financial advisors (esp. fee-based ones)?

First of all – the type of advisor she is talking about is one who charges for specific services. For example they might charge $300 for a financial plan. This type of advisor typically won’t handle the actual investments. They are like financial architects – they draw up the blue prints and then you (or someone else you hire) has to start building.

I don’t think the fee-only advisor business model has been all that successful in Canada.  It might be easier to find a commission-based advisor who also has a fee-only advice service.

Here is a list of Canadian fee-only financial planners.

Fee-only advisors are not perfect

Word of warning – Fee-only advisors may not have conflicts of interest because of commissions from investment products, but they do have a conflict because of their fees.

The more financial analysis they do for a client, the more they can charge.  I think for someone who is in their 20’s, having a detailed financial plan is useless because there are just too many unknowns in your future.

An expensive financial plan might be a good idea for someone who is about to retire, needs to get a handle on their finances and has a good idea of what their retirement income, needs are.

For most young people, the “rules of thumb” are as good as any detailed financial plan.  Avoid/reduce debt, save 10% of your income is a great start.  An advisor can give good advice about investing ie how to set up an appropriate portfolio, risk level etc.  But it shouldn’t cost too much.  I wouldn’t spend more than a couple hundred dollars for an analysis if you are in your 20’s.

How to find an advisor – resources

These articles will provide a good background for someone who is looking for a new financial advisor of any type:

Here is an interesting case study by Canadian Capitalist where he actually tries to find a fee-only financial advisor:

 

Does anyone use a fee-only advisor?  Any advice on how to find one?

 

 

 

Categories
Announcements

LinkStuff: Globe & Mail Mentions and Canadian Tire Parking Lot Edition

I bought a few more camping supplies last weekend at Canadian Tire. There were no price discrepancies this time, but it wouldn’t be a CT trip without some kind of incident.

I was walking along the sidewalk to our car with my two kids riding in the shopping cart. Up ahead there were two carts perfectly positioned to completely block the sidewalk. I mentioned this to my kids and they volunteered to move them. My five year old son moved one of the carts, but unfortunately it rolled right off the sidewalk onto the parking lot. There were no cars where the cart rolled onto – I think they were “customer pickup” spots or something.

The parking area has a slope where the cart was and it started rolling towards the driving lane. The three of us stood there and watched as the cart ended up crashing into a mini-van trying to park.

I thought “oh no”, thinking that the driver was going to be mad and expect money or something. However, he didn’t do anything at all. As I got the kids into my car, he had his trunk open and was just acting normal. Later I went over to apologize and the guy was super nice. He said he had two little kids in the back as well and understood what it’s like. It was just an accident, so no problem.

Thanks to the Canadian Tire parking lot stranger for being such a nice guy and sorry about the dents!

The Globe & Mail

I chatted with Roma Luciw of the Globe & Mail recently and she quoted me in two separate articles.

  1. A primer on how to withdraw from RESPs.  Find out my little RESP secret.
  2. Are you getting the most from your RESP?

I’ll be doing an online chat with the Globe & Mail site answering RESP questions on Wednesday, September 7th at noon.

On with the links

Susan Crossman wrote a beautiful piece on her kids going to summer camp and what it all means.

My buddy Matt Jabs has put together a neat book of 60 natural DIY cleaner products. Matt is really into DIY everything (to put it mildly) and cleaning products are a pretty good application of this.  I might have to make some of these for my housekeeper.  🙂

The Globe reports that schoolyard design is contributing to child obesity. This is the biggest bunch of b.s. I’ve ever read. The schoolyard at my old public school was right out of a prison movie set sans the high walls and guard towers. One big flat expanse of asphalt and black rock gravel with the obligatory basketball court. That was 35 years ago when there was only one fat kid per school. I mean come on – kids today are not as active, they have more access to crappy foods and they are fatter because their parents are fatter. The other problem is that parents won’t let kids do anything on their own anymore. Fine, but it’s up to the parents to stay active, so their kids will stay active.

Canadian Financial DIY says we need to include total returns when talking about stock market returns.

My Own Advisor brags about how old his car is.

The Oblivious Investor explains why markets are relatively efficient. Even if they don’t seem that way at times.

The Wealthy Canadian bought one ounce of gold.

Rob Carrick had a very good list of 20 things I don’t understand about personal finance.

Sustainable Personal Finance advises to pay yourself first.

Canadian Capitalist lists the things he liked about the Wealthy Barber Returns.

Echo explains why he doesn’t need a mortgage broker. I couldn’t get my bank to budge without one.

Michael James doesn’t think that high gas prices are changing behaviour.

Million Dollar Journey wrote a primer on futures contracts part deux.

And a few more links

 

Categories
Personal Finance

Why I Have An Emergency Fund

I was reading an interesting forum thread recently about emergency funds. Some people are for them, others are not. Three years ago, I went from being a firm non-believer in emergency funds (if you have debt) to having an emergency fund myself, even though I still have debts.

I’m well aware that it is not financially logical for someone like me to have an emergency fund, but I like to have one anyway.

Why I didn’t have an emergency fund before

  • I had long term debt (mortgage) – This means that the “cash pile insurance fee“, will go on indefinitely. If there is a 2.5% spread between the mortgage rate and the interest earned on the emergency fund, it will be an annual cost for at least 10 years or more. That’s a significant amount of money.
  • No TFSA – Prior to 2009, any interest earned on the emergency fund was taxed at over 40% marginal tax rate. This meant that the “cash pile insurance fee” was even larger – maybe 3% or more, which was unacceptable to me.
  • HELOC (Home equity line of credit) – Contrary to what some fear mongers say, banks won’t pull your HELOC if your finances are in decent shape. I’ve known lots of people who have divorced, been laid off etc and nobody has ever lost any credit.

Why I now have an emergency fund

  • Layoffs – About three years ago, there were several rounds of layoffs at my company. Screw the math – having several months worth of expenses in the bank makes those days a lot easier to handle.
  • TFSA – Interest earned in my TFSA emergency fund is tax-sheltered. This isn’t a huge benefit with the current low interest rates, but it helps.
  • Short term mortgage – My long term debt has been turned in to short-term debt. Whatever “cash pile fee” I have to pay, will disappear next year when my mortgage is paid off.
  • Wife – My wife has been out of the workforce for six years – it is getting more and more unlikely that she will ever work full time at the salary she used to. I think we are a single income family, and having an emergency fund helps psychologically with that as well.

Bottom line is that there is no one right answer when it comes to emergency funds and it’s not just about the math.

Do you have an emergency fund? Are they a waste of money?

Categories
RESP

New Ebook Announcement – How To Withdraw From Your RESP Account

RESP Withdrawal Rules BookI’m happy to announce that the long awaited (by me at least) Kindle e-book called “How To Withdraw From Your RESP Account Whether Your Child Goes To School or Not” is finally available. For the bargain basement cost of $4.99, you can learn everything you need to know about maximizing the amount of money you get out of your RESP account.

Please note that you don’t need an e-reader in order to read this e-book. Instructions for reading this e-book on your computer or iPhone are included later in this article.

The withdrawal phase of the RESP is the time when there are the most pitfalls – extra taxes, lost grants and potential penalties are all things to be avoided or minimized. Knowing the withdrawal rules and being aware of various strategies will ensure you don’t make any expensive mistakes with your RESP withdrawals.

Who should buy this e-book

  • You have an RESP account (obviously).
  • At least one beneficiary (child) is either currently attending post-secondary education or will be attending in the next year or so.
  • Your child is not planning to attend post-secondary education or quit early.

Who should not buy this e-book

  • You have read my full length The RESP Book (it’s the same RESP withdrawal material in both books).
  • Your RESP account is a group/pooled/scholarship RESP plan.  Follow the link if you are not sure what you own.
  • Your child is more than a couple of years away from attending post-secondary education.

How do I buy this e-book?

There is only one place to purchase this e-book and that is the Kindle Store located on Amazon.com.

Note that the Canadian Amazon site does not have a Kindle store.

Can I read this e-book without an e-reader?

Yes!  You can download an app for whatever device you want to use – iPhone, PC, MAC etc.

Here are the instructions:

  • Set up an Amazon account if you don’t have one.
  • Go to the RESP Withdraw book page.
  • Select “Buy now with 1-Click”.
  • On the next page it will say “[your name], we did not find a Kindle device or reading app registered….”.
  • Select which app you want from the list of PC, iPhone, iPad, Android or BlackBerry.
  • Download the app and then run it.
  • At this point you should be able to buy any Kindle book.

If you want to open an RESP account or have recently started one or you would prefer a regular print book

Consider buying my full length guide The RESP Book.  It will take you through the entire RESP process from setting up an account to completing withdrawals. It contains all the material in the RESP withdrawal e-book.

How big is the e-book?

This e-book is not a full length book.  It is about 7,500 words which would be approximately 40 pages if it was a 6″ by 9″ print book. It is roughly one third of the size of my full length RESP book.

 

Categories
Announcements

LinkStuff – Camping Trip Edition

We did our big camping trip last weekend at Awenda Provincial Park which is about an hour north of Barrie, Ontario.

It went very well, although Saturday was pretty rainy. Luckily our friends thought to bring a big tarp, so we had a dry place to hang out. The weekend ended up being really fun.

We learned that we need to organize our camping gear better. It was difficult to get everything packed into the car and the fact that we had an extra air mattress and extra tent didn’t help much. We also had a sleeping bag which I’m sure is rated for -100 degrees. It’s very cushy, but we just don’t need something that big for summer camping.

That’s it for camping this season, but we’re hoping to go several times next year.

On with the links

Fascinating article on decision making and how tiring it can be.

Adrian Liston pokes some amusing holes in the US government debt vs family debt debate. Apples and oranges.

Canadian Couch Potato had a very funny post on the suitability of gold as an investment.

Financial Uproar (one of my favourite bloggers) had an excellent piece – debt isn’t evil. He’s right.

Nelson from Financial Uproar wrote another great post on fixed or variable mortgages. Great analysis.

The Oblivious Investor came up with an innovative way to plan for variable withdrawal rates in retirement.

Big congrats to Potato who has finally finished his PH.D.

Boomer & Echo explain real return bonds.

Canadian Capitalist announced that BMO Investorline will allow US$ registered accounts.

Kevin Press didn’t have a successful yard sale. I think he just can’t let go of those couches.

Michael James talks about the problem with currency hedging.

Million Dollar Journey wrote about futures contracts.

My Own Advisor doesn’t like online investment calculators. Probably because most of them lie.