Categories
Personal Finance

Lifestyle Inflation – Can It Be Avoided?

According to the mainstream media in both Canada and the US – we are in the midst of a terrible recession.  Stock market crashes, layoffs, increasing unemployment mean that lifestyle inflation is not something that most people have to worry about.  Or is it?

In my case, my investments are doing fairly well, I still have my job, no permanent pay cuts and I have a side business which did reasonably well in 2009.  The fact is that 2009 was the best year I’ve ever had financially.

My wife and I have identified some financial goals that we would like to achieve over the next 5 years or so.  The main ones are:

  • Pay off the mortgage.
  • Max out my rrsp room.

We’ve been pretty good about watching our spending and keeping our eyes on the goal but it is hard to not just start spending more.  There are unfinished renos/fixes around the house that I would love to hire someone to do.  Our tv is a 27″ CRT (the old tube style) which still works ok but it would be nice to upgrade to a shiny new flat screen.

Since we are not hardcore about reaching our goals before loosening the purse strings a bit, I’ve been thinking about how to analyze potential purchases.  It seems to me that one way to think about purchases/expeditures is to divide them into 2 categories.

1) Where you commit future money in the form of debt payments or regular fees.

Debt:
Examples might be where you buy a bigger house/car  – property taxes, utilities, insurance, maintenance, debt payments.  Large reno. vacation, any other spending which is on credit.

Non-debt future payments could be on something like:

Sign up for some membership such as a gym – monthly payments.
cable tv service, internet service.  Costco – other clubs.

The problem with this type of lifestyle creep is sometimes it can’t be easily undone or changed.  Debt has to be paid off, a house or car that is too expensive can be sold but that is a lot of work.  This adds risk to your finances and sometimes you can get into trouble if your income is reduced and you have trouble making your payments.  Things like houses are not all that liquid and if the value has gone down significantly then selling might not solve your problems.

Some ongoing fees can be reduced or cancelled such as cable tv.

2) One time expenditure – no future obligations.

These are items where you just have the one time cost which you don’t have to borrow.  Entertainment, nice dinners, vacations, any other items that you have the cash for such as furniture, renos.

In my mind this is a different type of lifestyle creep that is less risky is where you spend money (where you have the cash) on things that have no future commitments.

These lifestyle luxuries may not do much for your financial standing (except maybe renovations) since you are basically trading money for “experiences” but if nothing else you can stop that kind of spending on a dime if necessary.  Yes, mentally it might be hard to stop eating out or have to cut back on vacations but the choice is yours.

The dilemma that I see is that items with future commitments are often items of lasting value so they might not be poor financial decisions.  A house is a great example – while they can go down in value and do, it’s not likely that your house will lose the majority of it’s value.  Even if your house value does go down a lot it might not matter much as long as you can still make the payments and don’t want to move.
A car is another example of lasting value – yes, it does depreciate but not overnight.

The problem with spending money on items with no future commitments is that they are often of no value once you purchase them.  Any money spend on nice dinners, entertainment and vacations is completely gone since there are no remaining assets of value.

It seems that borrowing (leveraging) to buy assets that hold their value or appreciate will lead to greater wealth down the road as long as your income can be maintained.  If you have reduced income for any length of time then you could lose a lot.

On the other hand someone who spends a lot of money on items of no monetary value may not have a great finances since they might not have any real assets but they also don’t have much in the way of commitments so they can survive a reduced income fairly easily.

Anyway, for future large purchases I’m going to try to consider the following:

  • Do I have to borrow? Borrowing means future obligations which means more financial risk.
  • Are there on going fees?  Signing up for a gym/club membership might not cost anything up front but your cash flow will be reduced until said membership is cancelled.
  • If I buy a new HD tv then do I have to upgrade my pvr as well as my cable package?  If I get a new car (with cash) will the insurance/gas costs go up?
  • How quickly will the item depreciate?  This obviously doesn’t apply to consumables but do things like furniture, new cars, a nice tv retain some portion of their value for a time?
  • Will this purchase delay retirement?  I’d love to be financially independent at some point and every penny I spend or commit to spending in the future delays that date.  If the purchase is large enough then it will delay retirement.
  • Do you apply any kind of selective thought process before committing to new purchases?  Do they work?

Summary

It’s hard to come up with any kind of financial “rules” out of all these different thoughts but I did manage to come up with the following:

  1. If you are regularly spending more than you earn then try not to commit any future money to things with ongoing payments.  Ie just overspend on things like restaurant meals (which can be easily stopped).
  2. If you are living well below your means then you can not worry about future commitments as much.  Buy a house, join a gym etc.
Categories
FrontPageOnly

Roth IRA Contribution Limits For 2010

It is a brand new year which can only mean one thing – it’s time to start tax planning for 2010!  That’s right – the Roth IRA contribution limits have been released for 2010 and it is never too early to get this information.

As expected the 2010 Roth IRA limits have not been changed from the 2009 Roth IRA limits which is good and bad.  It is bad because the contribution limits didn’t increase but it’s also convenient since if you know the 2009 limits then you also know the 2010 limits.

If you thinking about buying tax preparation software then consider software programs such as TurboTax or TurboTax Canada (for Canadians).

This article covers all the contribution limits and rules for Roth IRA. This retirement account is a very useful retirement tools since you don’t pay any taxes while the money is in the account or upon withdrawal so there isn’t any uncertainty about tax rates when you are retired.  The contribution limits are much less than the 401(k) plan but it’s good to diversify your retirement savings into pre-tax accounts (401k) and after-tax accounts (Roth IRA).

Here are the limits for 2010 and previous years:
[table id=19 /]
The “over 50” rule is applied to allow older people to “catch up” on their contributions.  Sometimes people find themselves just around the corner from retirement with little or no savings.  Having a different contribution category for those folks is a way to allow them to salvage a decent retirement.

Roth IRA income phase out ranges

[table id=20 /]

The phase outs are graduated which means that if you make less than the bottom end of the range then you get the full contribution room ($5,000 or $6,000).
you make more than the high end of the range then your contribution room is zero.  If your income is somewhere inside the range then you will only get part of the maximum contribution room.  See this post – 2009 Roth IRA contribution limits for a detailed example of how the phase-out works.

Roth IRA rules

All Roth IRA contribution room has to be used by Apr 15 of the following tax year.  The contribution room cannot be carried forward indefinitely.  Any contributions made between January 1st and April 15th in 2010 can be designated either 2009 or 2010 so you have your choice as to which tax year to apply the contribution to.  Generally speaking applying to the previous tax year makes sense since that gives you more opportunity to use the current tax year contribution room later on in the year.

The Roth IRA contribution limit applies to all Roth IRA accounts you own as well as any other type of IRA accounts such as Traditional Roth account.

More information

2009 Roth IRA contribution limits and phase out numbers.

Categories
FrontPageOnly

SmartyPig Review – Online Savings Account

SmartyPig is an online, high-yield savings account which is offered by West Bancorporation, Inc.  It launched in April of 2008, so is still fairly new to the bank All money deposited in a SmartyPig account is held by West Bank of Des Moines, Iowa, and is FDIC insured up to the normal $250,000 limitations.  While it all probably sounds like your average online savings account so far – there are some differences in how SmartyPig allows you to save money.

The SmartyPig Difference

SmartyPig requires that you create specific goals for saving before you can start adding money to the account.  For example, you could use SmartyPig to save for your next vacation.  You figure out how much you need and by what date, and then decide how often you want to contribute.  SmartyPig will calculate how much your contributions should be to reach your specific savings goal, based on the information you provide.

The other main difference between SmartyPig and other savings accounts is that it encourages account holders to share their savings goals and their progress on social media sites and blogs.  In fact, it even allows your friends and family to contribute to the savings goals you’ve created.

Signing Up for SmartyPig

Creating an account with SmartyPig is fairly painless.  You have to enter your basic identification information, social security number, date of birth and driver’s license number.  The bank will run a soft pull of your credit to verify your identity.

Next, you connect your SmartyPig account with your main bank account which you’ll use to fund your savings goal.  The money will be automatically transferred according to the schedule you select when establishing the savings goal.  You can connect more than one account, if you like.

Set Up a Savings Goal

Once your account is established and you’ve linked your SmartyPig savings with your regular bank account, you can create your savings goal and contribution schedule.  Your minimum savings goal must be at least $250, with a maximum of the FDIC limit of $250,000.  The initial deposit must be at least $25 to start your savings goal, and each automatic contribution must be a minimum of $10.

Withdrawing Money

While the point of SmartyPig is to keep your money in the account and keep contributing until your goal has been reached – you can withdraw your money at anytime if you need to and without penalty.  There are three methods for withdrawing money from your SmartyPig account:

  • ACH Transfer – you can transfer the money right back to your bank account.
  • Debit Card – if you choose, you can have a MasterCard debit card attached to your SmartyPig account.  This allows you to withdraw money from your account from ATMs or by using the card to make purchases.
  • Retail Gift Cards – a unique feature to SmartyPig is the ability to withdraw your savings directly to retail gift cards.  When you choose this method, you can get up to 12% more than you’ve saved thanks to partnerships with major retailers.
Categories
Announcements

Please Donate To Haiti Earthquake Victims

A Haitian man carries his dead daughter.

I’m sure by now everyone has heard of the huge earthquake in Haiti which has devastated the country and killed many thousands of people.  I wanted to write a post to try to urge people reading this to consider donating to help the people of Haiti.  We have donated $250 to the Canadian Red Cross and $250 to Doctors Without Borders which I think are worthwhile charities for this situation.  Money is the best donation – items like food, clothing etc are too difficult and slow  to process and transport.

If you want to donate then check out the Canadian Red Cross site.  If you are American then I suggest you check out an American donation information page.  For more info on Canadian charities then check out Canadian Capitalist who has assembled a list of Canadian charities.

I’m not much of a giver when it comes to charities.  I usually give a bit of money each year – mainly to people I know who participate in fund raising activities such as a run/walk.  I like to see some effort behind the fund raising.

Warning – I’ve heard of scams where people will phone pretending to represent a charity raising money for Haiti. Apparently the real charities are not doing phone canvassing so I would suggest not donating over the phone. Do in person or online. For this reason I’ve disabled contextual ads on this post since I know they will contain scam links

In 2008, for some reason I didn’t donate a single dollar.  I was somewhat embarrassed about this since I know I am a lot better off than most people who will benefit from any donations.  In 2009 we decided to pick a donation amount for the year ($400) and split it up among different charities.  I pretty much had to force myself to make the donations and I still didn’t quite reach the $400 mark.

I have no difficulties donating money for tragedies like the Haiti earthquake. There is no doubt in my mind that the victims are real and very much in need.  Any donation WILL make a big difference which isn’t always so obvious with most charities.

One of my concerns with charities is of course – how much of the money is actually being used to help vs pay for salaries/more fundraising?  This concern is still valid for the Haiti relief effort and I’m sure there will be mistakes made given the lack of preparation.  There isn’t much I can do about this concern other than hope for the best and donate to a charity that I’m familiar with.

One of the things about this sort of scenario is that the victims are easy to help.  Their short term needs are fairly basic:  clean water, food, shelter, medical care.  I’m not saying those things are easy to provide but at least if you can provide any or all of those basics then you will be making a big difference.

This isn’t always so obvious with most charities.  If you provide free food long term to people are you helping them or in fact hurting them?  Things like cancer research are worthwhile endeavors in my mind but who does it help?  Donating money for medical research should indirectly help someone (perhaps even yourself) in the future but it likely won’t help anyone who is suffering from an illness or injury right now.

You can’t make all your donating decisions (or any other kind of decision) based on short term results but it does make it easier to pull the trigger on a contribution.  Seeing a picture like the one at the top of this post is heartbreaking.  That dead little girl is probably only a few months younger than my own daughter and unfortunately she didn’t make it.  By donating, I’m hoping to prevent more deaths like hers.

More posts on this topic

For those interested, Million dollar Journey is offering to match donations to Doctors Without Borders.
How To Donate To The Haiti Earthquake Relief Effort – Amateur Asset Allocator
Cash Money Life — Money Management, Small Business, Career
Safe Ways to Help Haiti
Canadian Financial DIY: Haiti Earthquake Relief Charities
How to Help Haiti
Help Haiti Through The Red Cross
» How to Support Haitian Relief Efforts @ fivecentnickel.com
Help for Haiti: Here Comes the Blogosphere | MapleMoney
Donate To Doctors Without Borders to Help Aid Haiti

Categories
Announcements

Linkstuff For January 14

Time for another roundup of posts – lots and lots this week.

Carnivals

Festival of Frugality

Categories
Personal Finance

Sony HVL-F42AM External Flash Review – Lot of Money And Hassle For Not Much

Warning – this post is very long and most of it has very little to do with my Sony external flash.  If you want to just read the low down then skip to the Sony external flash review.

Last year we bought our first DLSR camera – the Sony A350 which is a pretty good camera.  It wasn’t cheap but it takes great photos and is super fast which was a key criteria since one of the main motivations for buying it was to take pictures of our very active kids.  A friend of mine has a similar type of camera which he had bought about year before I bought my Sony A350.  One of the things he told me was to buy an external flash since he found it made a huge difference in the quality of photos.  I was ok with the photos we were getting so I didn’t bother with the external flash at first, but last fall I started thinking about it and ended up pulling the trigger on a Sony HVL-F42AM external flash.

How and where I bought the flash

First of all – I’m not a really shop-around kind of guy.  For some reason I like to think that the electronic markets are relatively efficient so it shouldn’t really matter where you buy your electronic product since the prices shouldn’t vary all that much.  In reality that is not the case.

I ended up buying the flash from an American company called Click 4 Digital which is basically an electronics wholesaler.   They had the cheapest price I could find at $229 US.  This seemed pretty good considering the other companies I looked at were all about $299.  Future Shop here in Canada was the only place I found the identical item and it was $385 there ($435 including tax).  Even with the exchange I was saving about $205 compared to Future Shop.

I can’t complain about the price but it turns out that they charge $50 US to deliver to Canada (they phone to tell me this).  Ok, so now the saving is only $150 which is still pretty good.  However, the guy on the phone pointed out that I needed batteries for the flash and said they had some rechargeables – either $49 or $69 for the extra-long-life rechargeable batteries and recharger.  I opted to go with the $69 batteries – this cost didn’t affect the savings from buying in the US however it did add to the price of the flash.  Instead of the $230 price tag I was comfortable with – I was now looking at $229 + $50 (delivery) + $69 (batteries) = $348 US which is about $370 Cdn.  Had I known it would cost this much I would have done a lot more thinking about whether to purchase or not.

I later on looked up the rechargeable batteries and recharger and it turns out that Amazon has the same recharger for $14  (I paid $70).  That should teach me to do an “add on” over the phone.  I assumed since the flash was cheap that everything else was cheap too!  I was sitting at my computer when he phoned so I could have easily looked it up.

The UPS ground delivery

I’ve heard before that UPS ground should be avoided at all cost when receiving a package from the US and I wasn’t disappointed.  UPS left a notice in my mailbox saying they tried to deliver the package and would try again the next day.  There was also a $41 COD (cash on delivery) charge which is why they wouldn’t just leave the package.  Needless to say I wasn’t pleased with the $41 charge which now meant my (not very expensive) external flash was up to $390 which is more than you would have to pay for my Canon 200sx (awesome) camera.  The other problem was getting the delivery – the next day the same thing happened where they tried to deliver but nobody was home so another notice.  I checked the UPS website to see if I could just arrange to pick it up somewhere but it didn’t look like I could do that.  Normally my wife is home during the day but for some reason she wasn’t there for those delivery times.  On the UPS website it indicated that after three attempts the package would be sent back to the company.  Needless to say I didn’t want this to happen since I’d probably be looking at a whole pile of new delivery and custom charges.

I phoned a local UPS store and he told me I could just leave a note on the door with instructions to deliver to the UPS store and then I could pick it up at the UPS store later on.  The only catch was that because money was owed, I had to pay the money to the UPS store first before they would accept the delivery.  So the next morning my wife went to the UPS store – gave them $41 on a credit card to make sure we could get the damn thing delivered.  As luck would have it, my wife was home to accept the delivery so we ended up cancelling the $41 we paid to the UPS store – but it was still a big hassle!  Avoid UPS ground delivery if you can.

The Sony external flash review

Now that I’ve finished the exciting story of how I purchased the flash – maybe it’s time to actually give an actual review.  To put it simply, I was quite underwhelmed.  I had expected great things from this flash – as my friend had put it – his flash made a difference like “night and day”.  My flash didn’t make that difference for the shots I like to take.  Most of our shots are in our house or outside in good light.  Either situation means that the external flash doesn’t usually add much to the picture and in fact often made the indoor shots look worse because it put more light behind the subject.

The Sony flash works very well – it can literally light up a room and is quite impressive in that respect.  The problem is that for the photos I like to take, it just doesn’t add much.  In fact sometimes it makes photos look a lot worse.  It’s the right tool for someone else’s job.   Part of the problem might be my lack of expertise – perhaps a more advance photography nut could make better use of it.  I did a number of tests to see if it was helping my photos and it appeared that the only time it really was making  a difference was in poorly lit rooms.  If I turned the dimmer lights most of the way down in our kitchen for example then the picture with the external flash was far superior to the picture taken with the normal flash.  This proves the flash works but why would I take a picture in my kitchen with the lights down so low?  Maybe if there was a burglar having a snack and I wanted to get photographic evidence? I also  suspect the flash would also work fairly well if you are taking pictures outside at night but this is not something I normally do.

Another thing I figured out was that the flash worked quite well when taking pictures of certain objects but not others.  People pictures (which is all we take inside) did not do very well with the flash, in fact using the flash often made the picture look worse.  For some photographers this flash would probably be a great tool but for us, it just doesn’t do the trick.

Here are some test pictures which show the good and bad sides of the external flash

This is with the normal flash. The lights are turned down quite a bit so it is a bit dark.
This picture is with the external flash. There is more light but because some of it is coming from above, it can create more shadows. This is quite obvious with human subjects. Lots of extra shadows.

Why did my friend like his flash so much?

I have a couple of theories as to why my friend liked his flash and why some people would benefit from an external flash.

  • The built-in flash on your camera is crap.  If this is the case then adding an external flash might make a huge improvement.  Buying a better camera might also make an improvement.
  • You like taking pictures in poor lighting.  I’m sure there are lots of times this would come in handy but I haven’t encountered them myself other than then on the odd power outage.  I imagine there are a lot of professions who could use this flash such as insurance adjusters, accident/forsenic investigations, stripper scouts, ghost busters, anything to do with vampires etc.

What to do with my flash?

The reality is that we don’t use the flash. It’s a bit of a hassle and most pictures don’t look any better with it.  If I could do it again, I would have preferred to not buy it or have bought a local option so that I could return it.  I may try to sell it and see what I can get.  I’m thinking that if I can get at least $200 then selling it is probably the best choice.  I’d rather sell for say $300 (and a $100 loss) and not have the flash over owning the flash and never using it and being out $400.

What do you think?

In the unlikely event anyone is still reading this incredibly long post – what should I do?  Sell for whatever I can get?  Learn how to use it properly?  Start taking pictures of cemeteries at night?

Categories
Real Estate

Interest Rates Effect on Housing Prices


We’re obviously coming off of a period of very low interest rates. When rates were low, I thought to myself “now is a great time to buy a house, since I can get a great rate on my mortgage”. Amusingly, the truth of this statement made it incorrect.

When interest rates are low, you aren’t the only one who notices. Many people decide its time to buy their first property (or upgrade to a larger property), and consequently prices get driven up: supply and demand. When interest rates are high, no one wants to buy. This causes people who HAVE to sell to either give a super deal, or to provide vendor financing at a more reasonable interest rate, which is itself a super deal.

Much as buying stocks when the market is down makes sense, often buying real estate when interest rates are high makes sense for similar reasons. With the stock market, the masses have been scared off, so you don’t have competition. Similarly with real estate. Bidding wars happen when lots of people can afford to buy.

In theory the best approach might be to buy when interest rates are high, get a variable mortgage, then when you renew if rates are lower, borrow as much as you can and get a fixed rate. If you’re renewing when rates are high, obviously get another variable rate mortage. Supposedly the long-term average interest rate in Canada is around 10%, so you can use that to decide when rates are high or low. Personally I like fixed-interest mortgages, just because it helps me plan my cash flow better. I realize I’m supposedly paying more for this, but as far as insurance goes I feel like its pretty cheap. If my mortgage was above 10%, there’s no way I would consider a fixed-rate mortgage (variable would be totally the way to go at that point).

You could also try to sell when interest rates are low, since that’s probably when there will be the most buyers available and you should get the best price.

If you can afford a big down-payment during high interest periods, not only would putting the money into your property be a good idea (since high interest periods also have high inflation and real estate is a great inflation hedge), but since you’d have a smaller mortgage, you won’t be paying as much at the super-high interest rate. Alternatively you could make the case that a big mortgage is still worthwhile, since you can benefit from the inflation (and if you have a variable mortgage, you’ll get immediate advantage when rates drop). Obviously don’t buy more house than you can afford!

You still need to be a savvy buyer and negotiate hard. Paying a higher rate due to mortgage insurance or long amortization isn’t all that helpful (this is an expensive way to purchase a house for people who don’t have any other options). If you pay top dollar for a property in a high-interest environment, the results won’t be pretty (although the seller will probably be laughing all the? way to the bank).

Categories
Investing

First Dividend Raise


Mike from Four Pillars posted about a dividend increase at BMO ($0.02 increase per quarter).

This is over $20 / year for me (294 shares, 4 quarters in a year). Not too shabby (I can have a couple yummy meals out and the good people banking at BMO will pick up the tab). With my margin debt I was losing more then $5 / month (that I’d have to add to the account), but with this increase I’m only losing $4 / month.

This also increases the “personal yield” (yes, yes, I know personal yield is silly, let me gloat here) of my “best purchase” ($60.80 per share on 8/14/7) to 4.61%.

I’m still in the early stages of dividend investing, and I have a lot to learn, but I’m very happy with how things have been going so far.