Categories
Investing

TSX Dividend Aristocrats

I’d like to find a listing of Canadian equities that have maintained or increased their dividend payments for the last 20 years. I know this would include all the big banks (I think one of them skipped a dividend payment in the early 80’s, maybe I can forgive them now 😉 ). Does anyone have / know of such a list? (basically all Canadian dividend payers and how long they have maintained / increased dividend payments)? If it was a free list that’d be even better.

Thanks in advance for any links!

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Categories
Frugal

Children as a Consumer Good vs a Producer Good

Canadian Capitalist wrote an excellent post about the cost of children. As someone who doesn’t have children (and doesn’t really expect to) you might think I wouldn’t have anything to add on this topic.

You’d be wrong.

An interesting article I came across (sorry, can’t find it again to provide a link) was about the idea that historically children were a “producer good”, that is they were an investment that you expected would pay you money over time. In the early years you invest your time and resources into a baby, and as they get older they’re able to contribute an ever-increasing amount back to the family (by working the farm, helping with the family business, etc). There’s risk to the investment (it’d be ghoulish to list them all), but the expectation is that you’d more then get paid back your early investment. To this day, in developing countries large-families are often a way for parents to insure that SOMEONE will take care of them in their old age. I briefly dated a woman who’s parents came from an African country, and whenever they had an expense in their lives (like putting in a new deck at their house), they’d hit the kids up for a contribution towards it.

A Chinese woman I talked to gave all her salary to her parents, who “invested” it for her and provide her with room and board. From a parents’ perspective this sounds like a pretty sweet deal, but I wouldn’t want to be the child!

In the west in modern times, children have instead been viewed as a consumer good (costs us money we don’t expect to recoup). The general view is that a child adds far more enjoyment to your life then the monetary costs. Mike from Four Pillars comments that he’s spending time with his girls instead of “expensive dinners, sporting events, booze etc.” and he doesn’t seem to regret it (so therefore he values the time spent with his children more then what he’s given up, i.e. they’re worth more to him then these things). These days often parents are providing housing or a monthly allowance for grown children, and in many cases are reasonably happy to do it.

Something being a consumer good isn’t a bad thing. If it adds more enjoyment to your life then the other things you could purchase (for an equivalent price) with your discretionary income, then its a very wise purchase. I hope that every potential parent weighs the cost/reward of having a child and makes the right decision for the lifestyle they want. In my view a lot of misery is added to the world by parents’ NOT making this decision (and instead allowing random chance to dictate their lifestyle for the next 18 years).

I love kids and when I spend time with them I definitely find it enjoyable (they have a really unique perspective on life and say things that really make you question some of your most basic assumptions). My one fear with having my own children is that its a consumer good with a “no returns” policy :-).

Categories
Frugal

Cutting Back on Food Spending

I’ve been amazed at how much I’ve been able to save on my food spending. By simply taking my lunch every day and eating at home more often at night (and shopping at No-Frills), I’ve cut my food spending from ~$21 / day to ~$14 / day. Ideally I’d like to get it down to $8.57 / day (which is supposedly what the average single male spends), but I think future reductions will be harder then reductions so far (law of diminishing returns, picking the low-hanging fruit and all that).

Previously when I had half-heartedly checked No-Frills, they hadn’t seemed THAT cheaper compared to Loblaws. When I checked more in detail (took my receipt from Loblaws and compared prices) it was AMAZING the difference in price. $30 at Loblaws gets you a small back of groceries, $30 at No Frills gets you enough groceries that you can barely carry them home!

My currently thinking is that I’ll start budgeting myself $20 / week for eating out (which leaves $40 / week for groceries) and see how that feels. Definitely less then I’m spending right now, but might be doable (basically one lunch out and one dinner out a week).

Is $40 / week of groceries from No-Frills doable? Am I going to be eating dog food?

Categories
Real Estate

ROI on Investment Condo

As I’m coming up on the 6th month anniversary of purchasing my investment condo, I thought now might be an interesting time to have a look at the ROI (Return On Investment) on my investment.

How to calculate this had me scratching my head a little, so I’ll present the results and my methodology, and if this seems weird to anyone, please feel free to suggest other ways to calculate this.

After *ALL* regular, on-going costs (including condo fees, property taxes, insurance and mortgage INTEREST) I clear $256.62 / month. I took all the money I’ve put into the condo that WASN’T related to these expenses (e.g. ignoring mortgage payments, insurance payments, etc since I’d already accounted for them) and it adds up to $43,811.68 (remember this includes the down payment, legal fees, renovations, maintenance, etc). Therefore I’ve had a ROI of 3.51% (256.62*6/43,811.68) over the last 6 months, which is an annual ROI of 7.03%.

Just for interest’s (pardon the pun) sake, I calculated my ROI WITHOUT mortgage interest factored in and it was 8.88% (17.77% annually). This is interesting just because the interest rate will probably be the largest variable that will change on future deals (it should be a lot more volatile then rent, labour/material costs or other fees involved).

So 61% of the cashflow is going to the bank, and 39% is going to me. I’m not sure if that’s good or bad. Certainly I couldn’t have done the deal without the bank’s capital, and this should shift as time goes on (as the mortgage gets paid off, more of the cashflow will go to me each month). Additionally, any increases in the cashflow will go to me (just as any decreases would come out of my share, not the banks).

Ignoring the mortgage, my ongoing costs are about half the rent I’m collecting. I’ve read that the non-mortgage expenses of a rental property will usually be 45% of the market rate rent (in a normal, balanced rental market). This includes management fees (and people who claim to be running a property for a lot less than 45% usually are doing the management themselves and ignore the value of their time). Property managers usually charge 10% of the gross rent. Therefore I’m either significantly under-charging for rent (which I don’t think is the case as I tried to rent it out for more and couldn’t) or my expenses are very high compared to other rental properties (which I believe IS the case, people often say renting condos isn’t very cost effective).

Certainly not amazing, but nothing to sneeze at either (and I’ve learned quite a bit while earning that 7.03%).

This ignores vacancies (I’m assuming the tenants moved in the instant I bought which wasn’t the case), any maintenance expenses beyond the condo fees (which I’m hoping will be minimal), and my time and effort.

It also ignores appreciation of the value of the property, tax implications (postive and negative) and the discount I purchased the property at.

As much as I love condos and feel much more comfortable investing in them, perhaps I should be looking at a more lucrative form of rental property going into the future…

Q at $1 Million to My Name: You need to hold my hand while I buy my first apartment building! 😉

Categories
Real Estate

Getting Started With Investment Real Estate – Part 6

To start at the beginning – please see part 1 of this series.

Its amazing to me how this series of posts has grown. I’m half-tempted to work them into a more coherent essay format once I’m finished and have a permanent link on my side-bar.

I needed to find tenants at this point, which was suddenly a totally new (and totally scary) activity. I joked with my friends and family going through this process that each time I felt I had become somewhat proficient in a part of the process (condo hunting, negotiating, renovations, tenants screening, landlording) I then moved on to the next stage which required totally different skills and had me starting as a novice again.

My buddy who already owned buildings was good enough to keep advising me throughout the process. His feeling was that many property owners got scared when a unit was vacant and would jump for the first potential tenants. Often this just lead to problems down the line, which would cost more than having the unit sit vacant for a couple of months. He said EVERY time he’d accepted a tenant in haste, he had regretted it later, so I decided to learn from his experiences and hold out for a tenant that passed his screening process.

I signed up for Rent Check Credit Bureau (http://www.rentcheckcorp.com), which certainly wasn’t cheap ($75 annual membership, $20 per credit check), but it was a necessary part of the process. I got applicants to fill out an application form (that I got from my buddy) and had a standard lease (also from my friend).

Basically if you get someone’s SIN or their driver’s license you can look up FAR more information about them then you’d ever imagine (things like current balance on their Mastercard and student loans, it made me uncomfortable what I was able to look up).

You also need to collect references and whatnot on the application form. These aren’t QUITE what you think they’re for, but they’re quite important. The previous (current) landlord must be contacted. If they had late payments to them, they’re cut. I was going to rent to one small family, and their current landlord had 2 late-payments on record and they HADN’T GIVEN NOTICE (yet they wanted to move into my place in 1.5 weeks). That’s going to be a great situation when they move in to my place, then stiff their old landlord. If they lose the court battle, they’re going to be short paying me, and if they somehow weasel out of it, they’re going to leave me without proper notice. Forget that!

I also had a woman who gave me her current landlord’s contact info. While we were talking she mentioned that her father did engineering work for the government and was a property owner. I did a Google search on her “current landlords” phone number (always do this), and sure enough, it was an electrical engineer’s company with the same last name as her (hmm, quite a coincidence). When I called up and talked to her “landlord” I got a glowing reference. I asked if they knew her before she’d moved in, and they promised me, “no, no, she’s a great tenant and we first met her when she moved in”. If someone needs to use their MOTHER as a reference (AND lie about it), you’re going to have trouble with them.

The personal references are mostly just names / contact info that you can use to track down people who know the tenant if needed (e.g. if they run off without notice or payment).

I started advertising my unit at a price that was average on http://www.rentometer.com. I showed it to about 10 people and not one of them filled out an application. My buddy told me that if 1/2 the people who view it don’t fill out an application there’s a problem (usually its overpriced). If people don’t fill out an application ON-THE-SPOT they’re not interested. They’ll say they’ll think about it and get back to you (but they’re just being nice).

I dropped the price, showed it some more (and still wasn’t getting anyone to fill it out). I was starting to feel a little desparate, so I talked a woman who worked at the condo corporation office and she told me what the average 2 bedroom was renting for in the building. I added a little bit extra to this (assuming her experience was over a longer time and the current rent should be a bit higher). I also charged a little bit extra for smokers (since I’d have to repaint) and pet-owners.

One line of thought is that its worth underpricing your unit. My experience is that renters are VERY savvy about what the going rate is (more then I am probably, since they’ve been looking at lots of units). If you charge a little bit below market, you’ll get a TON of applicants. Being able to pick someone who looks really good (great credit history and reference from past landlord) and get them in there quickly will easily make up for losing $50 / month on rent. The last place I rented, I eventually moved because the landlord increased the rent $50 (I was paying $650 and he raised it to $700). I was thinking about moving anyway, and the increase just got me to move sooner. He wasn’t able to rent it for 2 months after I moved out, so from trying to get an extra $50 / month, he lost $1300 (it’d take him over 2 years to recoup that if he was able to get the new higher rent from the next tenant.

Having a unit sit empty is expensive, but putting a bad tenant into it is far worse. Renting under-market is the best way to quickly get a good tenant (the good tenants will also know when a place is a deal – paying your bills on time and understanding the cost of things go hand-in-hand).

In the end I found a delightful young couple with excellent credit, who paid $1300 / month for my condo (they had a cat so they paid the “pet premium”). So far so good (they’ve been there for 2.5 months so far).

In the next part I’ll talk a little bit about the repair issues that came up after they moved in.

(continued in part 7).

Categories
Personal Finance

Passive Income

In addition to my networth statement, I thought I’d do some more details calculations on my passive income. As always, I realize my condo isn’t really passive (since I have to manage it), but the work is infrequent enough (hopefully) that I’m going to classify it as passive instead of treating it like a second job.

I’m calculating (and trying to decrease) my cost of living as well. When my after-tax passive income exceeds my cost-of-living I’ll be able to retire (on the assumptions that my passive income will increase at least as much as inflation and my lifestyle costs will stay the same or decrease).

BMO (136) – current dividend 2.72 – income: $369.92 / a, $30.83 / m ($25.90 after taxes)
ROC (471) – current dividend 1.20 – income: $565.20 / a, $47.10 / m ($39.56 after taxes)
E-trade margin debt – 9,188.30 – interest $648.18 / a, $53.60 / m ($35.38 after taxes)
Net: $24.33 / m (before taxes) $30.08 (after taxes)

Condo – $3000 / a, $250 / m – should be many deductions, including depreciation, such that I can get this tax free (hopefully, we’ll see how it works out when I’m doing my taxes).

Total passive income: $280.08 / m

Categories
Investing

Borrowing to Invest

I keep thinking there are some real opportunities to take advantage based on the idea of borrowing to invest (and the tax write offs revenue Canada offers for them).

Say I owned my house free-and-clear, and pay a 40% marginal tax rate (20% on dividend income). I could get a fixed-rate mortgage for 80% of the value of my home for 5.75% right now (3.3% after taxes, since I’m borrowing to invest and this is deductible). If I can safely get a 4.125% after taxes dividend-yield on my investment, then my dividends will pay for my mortgage.

Say instead, I deliberately sacrifice some yield and buy equal amounts of the big-6 banks (average dividend yield on them is around 3.25%, 2.73% after taxes in this case, right now I think). I’m now paying 0.57% on my mortgage (and the dividends are covering the rest). This is certainly a loss (since the 0.57% is coming out of my pocket), and people always say “don’t lose money just to spite revenue canada”, which makes good sense. HOWEVER I haven’t considered any capital gains or dividend increases in this situation. As long as the AVERAGE increase on these 6 bank stocks is greater than 0.57% a year (very likely if I’m holding for the long term), I should come out ahead. I will have to pay capital gains when I sell, but that will hopefully be at a point when I’m earning less income (or else why would I be selling?). Additionally, since I’m in a fixed rate mortgage, hopefully the dividends will increase (but the interest rate can’t), so if the dividends go up a little bit then I’m not out any money any more.

You could maximize this “risk protection” by going with a longer mortgage term (currently you could get a 10 year mortgage for 6.04%).

On a $200,000 mortgage this would cost $1140 / year, a nice little investment for $100 / month.

Obviously I’d be paying taxes when I sold the stocks (capital gains) or when the dividends increased, but that seems to be shifting my tax burden into the future (the same way an RRSP would), which people generally seem to feel is a good idea.

The risk to this is that the banks cut their dividends and all go bankrupt, then you’re back to paying a mortgage from scratch (as if you’d just bought the house). That would certainly suck, but I think the chance of *all* the banks dropping significantly is pretty small.

If I accept this risk, and want to get even more aggressive, I could choose a cash-back mortgage which would increase the interest rate (and hence the deduction) and provide more cash to buy dividends with (I would be counting on an increasing dividend / capital gains to compensate for this). This would cost more right now on a monthly basis, but that’s what I want (to shift income and taxation into the future). Getting EVEN MORE aggressive (I’m scaring myself now) would be to get the mortgage with the cashback, then buy the stock, then buy even more of the stock on margin (E*Trade would allows you to buy 70% on margin for stocks valued above $5). In theory you could buy $363,800 worth of bank stock (with a 200K mortgage, 7% cashback and 70% on margin). The stock could drop 41% before there was a margin call (and if you were earning a good income or had other liquid investments you could probably meet the call if this happened).

You could (if you had the extra income and wanted to maximize the future income) even keep buying additional stock (on margin) with the dividends and pay the mortgage payments with your income (assuming you could afford the full mortgage payments). This would be more a forced-savings / dollar-cost-averaging strategy rather then a taxation strategy though.

The “reasonable expectation of profit” that Canada Revenue insists on is certainly there (it wouldn’t be unreasonable to expect the stocks to go up 1% over the next year in the least aggressive situtation detailed above).

Does this work as I understand? Why don’t people do more of this (buying on margin / on mortgage for tax purposes instead of for leverage purposes) once they’ve maxed out their RRSP’s?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or pointers to relevant books / articles!

Categories
Investing

DRiP at a Discount

I’d been looking for something like this and just found it: http://cdndrips.blogspot.com/

Its basically a listing of all the Canadian DRiPs, along with the discount (sweet!) they offer for shares purchased through the DRiP.